Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating What ingredient that makes my lip tint Bitter?

  • What ingredient that makes my lip tint Bitter?

    Posted by rikandry on May 19, 2020 at 3:22 am

    Dear all,
    i make liptint with all this ingredient but the final product the taste is bitter when apply in lips, although i already use flavour.
    can anyone tell me what material that makes the bitter taste ?
    this is the material : 

    Glycerin; Propylene Glycol; Polysorbate 80; PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil
    Hydrogenated Polyisobutene; Dimethicone; Cetearyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer; Xanthan gum; Phenoxyethanol; tetrasodium EDTA; shea butter; CI 17200; CI 15985; Fruit flavour
    Thnak you. waiting for the reply.
    JellyFishKarma replied 2 days, 4 hours ago 7 Members · 10 Replies
  • 10 Replies
  • Pharma

    Member
    May 19, 2020 at 7:36 am
    Is it a DIY product? Simply try all the ingredients ;) .
    Unlikely: glycerol (sweet), propylene glycol (can give a hot taste), polyisobutene, dimethicone, cetearyl dimethicone crosspolymer, xanthan gum
    Rancid oils have a bitter taste e.g. old Tween 80 or PEG-40 HCO.
  • ngarayeva001

    Member
    May 19, 2020 at 10:41 am

    A very weird product. PEG-40 HCO is bitter 

  • rikandry

    Member
    May 20, 2020 at 4:57 am

    Thankyou @Pharma and @ngarayeva001 for your info. so its PEG-40 HCO that makes it bitter. i’ll reduce PEG-40 HCO value.

    Thanks again.

  • rikandry

    Member
    May 20, 2020 at 4:59 am

    A very weird product. PEG-40 HCO is bitter 

    just curious, why you say its “very weird product” can you tell me the reason?
    thankyou

  • ngarayeva001

    Member
    May 20, 2020 at 10:18 am

    The choice of emulsifiers is very strange. They have chosen very high HLB solubilisers to emulsify silicones and non-polar hydrocarbons. Surfactants are not made equal. They all have something they are good for and something they are bad for. Polysorbate 80 and PEG-40 HCO are solubilisers that are good for dissolving a tiny amount (say, 1%) of essential oil in a large water phase. Additionally to that, they have chosen bitter-tasting emulsifier. 

    Here is an example of a very popular lip tint (Benefit).

    Water (Aqua), Polysorbate 20, Phenoxyethanol, Sodium Hydroxide, Carmine (Ci 75470), Methylparaben, Fragrance (Parfum), Tetrasodium Edta, Geraniol, Linalool, Hexyl Cinnamal, Citronellol, Maltodextrin, Benzyl Salicylate, Bht. 

    It has no oil but the fragrance, so they used polysorbate 20 which is a solubiliser to dissolve it, which is a reasonable approach. Note, no other oils here.

    Here is an example of a high-end lip tint with oils (I suspect not too much anyway):

    Water/​Aqua/​Eau, Glycerin, Sorbitol, Squalane, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/​Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Brassica Alba Sprout Extract, Sodium Hyaluronate, Polymethylsilsesquioxane, Dimethicone Crosspolymer-3, Polysorbate 60, Sodium Benzoate, Potassium Sorbate, Benzoic Acid, Isododecane, Sorbic Acid, Citric Acid, Benzyl Alcohol, Yellow 5 (Ci 19140), Red 33 (Ci 17200), Blue 1 (Ci 42090)

    They probably used Simulgel NS which is pretty much tasteless and is designed to stabilise different types of oils (subject to amount).

    I know PEG-40 HCO is very bitter from my own experience. When I was much less experienced I confused it with another ingredient HCO (not PEG-40 just HCO) which is a wax, not a solubiliser and added it to my lip balm. And yes, it tasted awful.

    • ritag

      Member
      November 25, 2024 at 6:13 pm

      reading this i knew it was the peg-40… i discovered the same thing regarding the taste - but was astoonished by the effect and shine on lips that im now wondering if there is anything can be done to neutralize the bad taste of the hydrogenated castor oil?

  • rikandry

    Member
    May 29, 2020 at 7:34 am

    Dear ngarayeva001

    thank you for  your explanation. clear to me

  • niecie2k

    Member
    August 1, 2020 at 2:14 pm

    Interesting.  I currently have a lot of about 27 lipsticks which I am about to toss because they taste God awful and I have no idea how to fix.  The ingredients are below.  Any ideas?

    CASTOR OIL
    COCONUT OIL
    MANGO BUTT
    CC TRIGLY
    BEESWAX
    CARANUBA WAX
    MICA
    TIT DIOX
    IRON OXIDE
    MAG STEARATE
    CARMINE
    MICA SPARKLE
    VIT e
    ESS OIL
    • ChemistGuy

      Member
      November 29, 2024 at 1:06 am

      Could be that your butter/oils have gone rancid?

  • JellyFishKarma

    Member
    December 1, 2024 at 1:10 pm

    propylene glycol. are you using any flavors

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