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What if I add natural oils in emulsion at 40C temperature while cooling up the lotion?
Dear colleagues,
According to the lotion making technology we need to melt the emulsion in the oil phase with other oils. What If I use only Olive oil in the oil phase, create emulation, and the remaining oils (50% of the total oil phase) add into phase C - active phase. Will the emulation (Montanov 68 or Oliviem1000) remain stable or not? For en instance:
I do not want to heat Rosehip Oil, Pomegranate Oil, Rice Bran Oil. Who has such an experience? -
8 Replies
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That depends on a lot of factors such as the amount of oil you’re adding after the emulsion is formed, your mixing speeds, and what you consider “stable”.
This is one of those things you just have to try & see what happens.
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@Perry : For example 50% of oil phase, or 7.5% of the overall formula. Stable not get divided into two phases. What is the generic rule in this case, if I want to use 10% of the formula as active emollients and do not want to heat them till 75-80C?
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If you want to make sure you don’t get separation then putting all the oils at a high temperature is the best method.
You can add oils at lower temperatures but not really more than 1% of total formula. 7.5% (and 50% of oil phase) is just too much for most systems.
The only reason not to add oils at a higher temperature though is if they are aromatic and you are using them for their odor. For something like emollience I doubt you would see any noticeable difference.
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I just completed a project where the client did not want to heat certain oils in the formulation … so I dropped the oils in at 40C … a total of 13% oils. It worked and the emulsion was stable.
It really all depends on your emulsification system as to whether or not you’ll be able to successfully integrate the oils into the system at low temperatures.
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If you want to consider it, best you use a cold-process emulsifier combination such as Sucrose Stearate, Hydresia Oleosomes and/or Sucragel … you could develop an emulsion without any heat at all. The issue will be the sensorial of your lotion … it may not be as creamy as you’d like. All three tend to produce “water-thin” emulsions.
Or, use a modified hot/cold process with these same emulsifiers … if you want to get a “creamy” sensorial, thicken up with lots of Cocoa Butter in the “hot” phase.
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MarkBroussard : Thank you for advice! I will study the cold-process emulsifiers.
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Yes, those are good options. However, I did manage to incorporate 13% oils at 40C in a certified organic base, so I did not use the emulsifier I mentioned above on that project.
However, I have used all of these emulsifiers in other projects for cold-process emulsification and they work quite well. Thickening and getting a “cream” sensorial is more of the challenge with these emulsifiers. But, you can use them either hot process, cold process or mixed hot/cold process.
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@MarkBroussard I checked your advice 13% at 40C with Olivem 100 and 0.1% Xantanum Gum. The emulation is very stable , tested firts at +5C then at +45C storage conditions. It does not separate. As it works well I will use this technique in future formulas also, will add all valuable oils at 35C temperature as I do for active phase. Thanks for your knowledge sharing.
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