Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating Hair Water Based Clay Matte Paste - HARD TOP LAYER!

  • Water Based Clay Matte Paste - HARD TOP LAYER!

    Posted by gnomebeard on September 27, 2018 at 6:47 am

    Hard top layer is forming after pouring into jar.  It feels a bit clumpy.  Underneath the top layer is a perfect consistency…the way it should be.  Any ideas why I’m getting this layer?  Almost looks dehydrated.  A friend told me that some companies scrape out the top layer and “sculpt” the top and form a swirl.  My formula below is very similar to Lockhart’s Anti-Gravity.  Here is my formula and pictures…

    Water Phase

    Water:  74 grams

    Vegetable Glycerin:  3 grams

    PEG 7 Glyceryl Cocoate:  6 grams

    GelMaker and PVP is added when water phase is about 170 degrees

    GelMaker Style (Acrylates C10-30 alkyl methacrylate copolymer):  3 grams 

    PVP:  .75 grams

    Oil Phase

    BTMS-50:  4 grams

    Ceteareth 20:  8 grams

    PEG 8 Beeswax:  6 grams

    Microcrystalline Wax:  4 grams

    PEG 40 HCO:  8 grams

    Avocado Oil:  8 grams

    Grapeseed Oil:  5 grams

    Refined Shea Butter:  6 grams


    4.6 grams kaolin clay

    2.5 grams dead sea clay


    Liquid Germall Plus (.5%)

    After mixing both phases with stick blender, I added preservative and fragrance at around 130 degrees F.  Mixed more the poured at about 120 degrees F.  Very sticky and was setting up already at 120 degrees.  More water perhaps? 

    Dirtnap1 replied 5 years, 3 months ago 5 Members · 7 Replies
  • 7 Replies
  • Dirtnap1

    September 27, 2018 at 4:07 pm

    Try to pour around 140/ 60c. Your water thickener may be reacting with the clays causing it to thicken too much. Are you neutralizing the thickener? 

    Depending on formula, many big formulators fill in a heat tunnel to avoid skinning etc. Plus depends on humidity where you are filling, ambient temps etc. and when you cap your products. 

  • rkaufman6

    September 27, 2018 at 5:30 pm

    Do you have a film former in the formula? 

  • gnomebeard

    September 28, 2018 at 3:50 am

    How do you neutralize a thickener?  What do you mean by filling a heat tunnel?  

  • Toom

    October 6, 2018 at 1:04 am

    A heat tunnel is a tunnel simply supplying heat around a conveyor. I believe he is suggesting applying heat when filling can slowen the cooling process and prevent the top skinning over with a different texture to the bulk

  • belassi

    October 6, 2018 at 4:26 am

    Your formula is a long way from adding up to 100%

  • gnomebeard

    November 21, 2018 at 1:26 am

    @Dirtnap1 do you think i might be adding too much PEG 7 Glyceryl Cocoate? How would I neutralize the water phase?

  • Dirtnap1

    November 21, 2018 at 7:34 pm

    Peg 7 GC would make it thinner if adding too much. Will not harden. 
    Triethanolamine (TEA) for adjusting pH
     pH of 5-6 is good for hair products to my knowledge. You will need to test the pH of the product to see where it’s falling.

Log in to reply.