Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating Skin vitamin A Acetate for a retinol serum

  • vitamin A Acetate for a retinol serum

    Posted by DoctorBotanica on February 6, 2023 at 2:45 am

    How effective is vitamin A Acetate for a retinol serum? I attempted to
    make one today but the scent of the powder was strong. Is there an
    alternative? I also purchased granactive retinoid but it can’t be used
    for water based formulas. Thank you.

    DoctorBotanica replied 1 year, 4 months ago 3 Members · 3 Replies
  • 3 Replies
  • fareloz

    February 6, 2023 at 3:54 am

    There was a study recently discussed on reddit regarding stability of retinol in commercial products. The results are surprising since most expensive serums are most unstable and less expensive serum is more stable. So you can take a look at antioxidants used for that product (there is a table). Looks like Tocopherol Acetate is not enough, they used ascorbic acid + sodium ascorbyl phosphate + EDTA + BHT + tocopheryl acetate.

    Surprisingly Granactive retinoid showed the best stability, so if you use it you can take a look at The Ordinary serum and see what formulation they used.

  • ketchito

    February 6, 2023 at 5:19 am

    Unfortunately, stability is usually against activity for an antioxidant. Since an antioxidant is supposed to preferentialy oxidize instead of what you need to protect, it needs to be just stable enough to remain in your product. Acetates must be converted, and that’s not always the case (not fast enough or at all) when applied on the skin.

  • DoctorBotanica

    February 6, 2023 at 10:54 am

    Oh no 🙁 I spent so much time researching and experimenting. Wil have to go back to square one.

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