Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating Using a Melt & Pour Base

  • Using a Melt & Pour Base

    Posted by LisaB on September 2, 2023 at 5:11 pm


    I am using Stephenson Melt & Pour conditioner base and need to ‘doctor’ it up. I have thick, coarse hair and the product on its own is not effective. I am NOT a chemist and am looking for suggestions that I can add to this product to give it better detangling properties and slip.

    I have BTMS 25 at home, and DL-Panthenol and can get my hands on whatever is needed. Can anyone please help to guide me and let me know the % of any additive to use?

    Thanks all for your time and consideration.

    KMRCSMiami replied 8 months, 2 weeks ago 2 Members · 2 Replies
  • 2 Replies
  • KMRCSMiami

    September 3, 2023 at 7:12 pm


    So first things first- always refer to instructions for use by the manufacturer. Based off of some quick Googling, it seems the additives should not exceed 5% of the product, including a recommended 2% fragrance maximum. As the base does not contain water, your additions should be oil soluble. You may increase the % of the additives, but this will require some testing for trial/error as it will affect both stability and the hardness of this product.

    Hot Pour INCI: Glyceryl Stearate, Cetearyl Alcohol, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Polyglyceryl-4 Oleate, Glyceryl Oleate, Cocos Nucifera Oil, Behentrimonium Chloride, Isopropyl Alcohol, Hydrogenated Ethylhexyl Olivate, Hydrogenated Olive Oil Unsaponifiables.

    You are headed in the right direction by thinking of BTMS-25 (Behentrimonium Methosulfate
    (and) Cetearyl Alcohol) as its cationic and great for hair. But its my opinion that BTMS-50 would be better as its more conditioning and will provide more slip.
    The panthenol does not seem to play well here, neither does the addition of oils as you’re looking for slip/conditioning agents.

    Now knowing that its (1) oil soluble, and (2) the recommended % by the manufacturer, you may play around and find what works best for you! Knowing you have ~5% to play with, you may do a titration of BTMS/fragrance to see where the sweet spot is.

    • This reply was modified 8 months, 2 weeks ago by  KMRCSMiami.
    • This reply was modified 8 months, 2 weeks ago by  KMRCSMiami.
    • KMRCSMiami

      September 3, 2023 at 7:29 pm

      You may also consider STEPANQUAT® Helia (Disunfloweroylethyl Dimonium Chloride (and) Sunflower Seed Oil Glycerides (and) Lauryl Lactyl Lactate). This may work better than the BTMS.

Log in to reply.