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Use of botanical extracts in haircare products
Hi everyone! Thank you for your willingness to share your expertise and knowledge! I’m a hairstylist looking to create a few products on my own (to the best of my ability) and then transition to contract manufacturing. I’ve been lurking on this forum for the last 4 months as I have been working on formulating two products, and past posts have been extremely helpful.
I have a formula for a co-wash (cleansing conditioner). I love the way it works in terms of cleansing and conditioning in one step but I would like your advice on the use of botanical extracts in a product like this. Are they just going down the drain? Do they serve any purpose at all? Are they necessary to appease consumers who believe they serve a benefit?
Also, do you think that botanical extracts in leave-in formulations actually work? For example, I have one other product I am formulating that is a leave-in airdry cream that is meant to hold a style while leaving it soft and frizz free. If I introduce an ingredient like a hydrolyzed protein which claims to help with frizz, do you think these kind of add-ins actually give any real benefit? I know dimethicone is something that can help, but I’m trying to formulate a product without it.
Here is the formula I am currently working with for the co-wash:
1.3% Gluconolactone (and) Sodium Benzoate
8% Cetyl alcohol,behentrimonium chloride, cocamidopropyl betaine, sorbitan laurate (ICE Conditioner)
3% Fractionated Coconut Oil
1% Marula Oil
10% Taurate Paste
8% Glycerin
52% WaterDoes anything below this line (beside EO’s which I am using for scent) actually do anything?
5% Lactobacillus/Arundinaria gigantea ferment filtrate (Bamboo BioFerment)
5% Hydrolyzed Corn Protein, Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein and Hydrolyzed Soy Protein (Plant Keratin)
4% Hibiscus sabdariffa, glycerin (and) alcohol (Hibiscus extract)
2.7% Essential OilsAny thoughts or advice is greatly appreciated!!
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13 Replies
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Make a batch with, and another batch without. Test them on your product testers in a blind study. Then evaluate.
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Belassi is right ie Half head studies with and w/o in the salon will tell you if value is added:my two cents worth not likely.You would do better to add 0.3-0.5 cationic guar for wet/dry combing and body:in addition it does not build up on hair with repeated use.
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My guess…no, they aren’t doing anything. But you should test as others have said to be sure.
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2.7% Essential Oils is likely too high.
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Thank you for the feedback @Perry, @Belassi and @DRBOB@VERDIENT.BIZ - will try those ideas. @Microformulation, do you think 2% is ok as I am using for scent, or should I keep at 1%<? Appreciate your thoughts.
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Essential Oil levels are tricky. There are regulatory limits and in my experience, less is more. As a general rule of thumb, most will use 2% as their maximum level.
As many have pointed out, it is unlikely that your actives are doing a whole lot. I do recognize them as FSS/Active Concepts products and I am aware of their claims. You are at the higher level. As you get further along you will see that they are adding to the cost.
8% Glycerin might be a bit high. You might get better results with 3% Glycerin and 5% Propylene Glycol (or Zemea, Propanediol if you have an issue with PG).
Lastly, keep in mind that the decision to make the best Formulations you can as a Hairdresser could limit you a bit. On the surface these Formulations look ridiculously easy. As someone who works with start-up Formulas frequently, there is a lot of detail that you will miss out on that will require some rework in Contract Manufacturing. No offense. It is this same need for experience that keeps me from buying a Flowbee and cutting my own hair. -
@Microformulation, I appreciate your feedback and taking the time to share your expertise. No offense taken at all. I have been trying to learn the very basics of formulating so that I’m not completely clueless when it comes to understanding what goes into hair products. I realize that to have a successful range of products that I will need to have them formulated by chemists in contract manufacturing.
I wanted to learn enough to be able to create the baseline for my airdry styling cream because airdrying is so specific to hair texture and weather conditions, and I was looking for a certain feel from the product. I was afraid that the cost of multiple formulations to get the product to where I wanted would be prohibitive, and if I was able to get it pretty close on my own, it would also be a great part of my brand’s story.
I have a formula that works very well but now it is time to hand it over to a chemist who can fine-tune it. The co-wash formula I mentioned above is not my own but I love it and want to pair it (or a version of it) with my styling cream. Regardless, both formulas will be sent to someone (who hopefully doesn’t use a Flobee for their haircuts) who can get me on the right path from here.
In the meantime, I’ll play with the adjustments you mentioned. I don’t want to take advantage of people’s time on this board but I’m serious about trying to learn what I can so I actually have half a clue about the products I’m hoping to sell.
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What is “taurate paste”? Do you mean something like sodium methyl cocoyl taurate? If so then it should be pointed out that this is an anionic surfactant which is incompatible with cationics (behentrimonium chloride) and the functionality of at least one of the components will be nullified.
2.7% essential oil is far, far too high in any toiletry product. Ensure that you assess the fragrance level “in use” rather than sniffing the bulk product in the bottle. Only by doing that can you judge the real effect. Levels as high as you suggest can cause irritation on sensitive scalps (depending on the particular oil(s) you are using).
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The 2.7 % essential oil is far too high. In our shampoo for our own and other brands we use between 1.2 - 1.5% depending on the essential oils. You may also need to look at the balance between base, middle and top notes. Using mainly top notes, you will find that the fragrance will be lost before customers finish the bottle. We usually run a few test bottles over a couple of weeks to check for fragrance duration.
Some have sensitive scalps as suggested by @johnb, therefore I would suggest you calculate the allegen levels in your essential oil blend.
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Hi @johnb, thanks for that feedback. When I’m ready to find a chemist to help me navigate the process of finalizing a formula, I’ll be sure to bring this up with them (Hopefully they would see it anyway).
Hi @mikethair, that’s a great point. For myself, I have been using straight peppermint oil. The scent does get lost after awhile. I’m familiar with the concept of top/middle/bottom notes but not in practice. I wouldn’t have known that to be the reason for the fading fragrance, so thank you for pointing that out.
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When I’m ready to find a chemist to help me navigate the process of
finalizing a formula, I’ll be sure to bring this up with them (Hopefully
they would see it anyway).Do you have a “tame” chemist/formulator waiting?
One thing I used to hate in consultancy work was people (both tyros and experienced formulators) coming to me requesting that I “finalize” their formula into something resembling saleable product.
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I agree with John. A few times it’s actually been more work, took longer, (and cost the client more money) to “finalize” an existing formula than it would have been for me to come up with an existing formula from scratch.
A number of potential clients were shocked to find out that my fees are the same for formulating from scratch as they are for “finishing” a formula. I regard “finishing” a formula as almost the same level of difficulty as creating a formula with an existing commercial prototype and a LOI, and on a par with copying an existing formula from a private label company where there’s an ingredient declaration listing ranges.
I’m really kind of happy that I don’t have to do that any more.
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I have to agree with all. In almost every case where I was asked to “finalize” the Formula, what I was really presented with was more of a Product Development Brief/Marketing with some minimal and technically insufficient “research” on normal uses. I still had to create an actual Formulation. This is a very serious, yet common disconnect in this market.
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