-
URGENT- Lip Balm too soft
Hi,
I am working on a vegan lip balm that is being poured hot into a mold and once cool, transferred to a stick like a lipstick.
The formula that has worked so far is -
Oil - 73.8% (Carrier is Sweet Almond Oil)
Candelilla wax - 15%
Flavor - 5%
Shea Butter - 1%
Cocoa Butter - 5%
Vit E- 0.2%
It has worked in the smaller mold trays that I have (5-10 at a time) but once I tried it in the larger trays (75 at a time) I noticed it was breaking a lot more during the molding process and also once someone tried using it on the lips.
I am very confused because the smaller runs are all good with very few that are breaking during demolding.
Any advice on what needs to be done? Does the formula need to be reworked? Or is there a process mistake I am making?
-
6 Replies
-
<div>You may need to do a bit more work on the formulation. If any number, even if only very small, are breaking during demolding, then this is a warning sign that the formulation needs more work.
</div><div>At the same time, look at your process. When scaling up to larger numbers, all variables need to be constant. And you need to identify these variables. For example, the type of surface where the filled trays are placed. This should be a constant. We liked to use a wooden surface for cooling. If some trays are cooled on a wooden bench top and others on a granite bench top, you will see differences.
Also, record the ambient temperature of the room when molding.
I use an Excel template to record all parameters for every batch.
</div><div>
</div>
-
For this type of product I think you need to consider a high melting point wax (Rice, Sunflower, Carnauba etc) also and not rely on just the one wax. I think you will get a better and more stable product.
-
We were successful in producing a balm using Candelila Wax, Coconut Oil, and Black Seed Oil. To these oils, we added high-quality essential oils.
In our factory, we made and sold these balms to brands globally under their own labels.
We experimented with oil/wax ratios of between 10-30 %.
</div>
-
maybe try adding Hydrogenated Castor Wax, Rice Bran Wax or Beeswax to your formula for more of a structure and hold .
-
one of the big challenges you face as a formulator is scale up. you’ll run into issues you didn’t see in lab or smaller scale. for this formula, i suggest you change the wax structure of your lip balm. it’s good to have 3 waxes with different properties that you can tweak to get the desired result. for example, if you want something natural, i would do 3 waxes: carnauba wax or rice bran wax, candelilla wax, beeswax (if you don’t have to be vegan). you need a plasticizing wax like beeswax so it’s not too brittle. since you’re making a vegan lip balm, i would try the kester wax k-60p. fine tune the ratio to get the desired texture.
-
<div>Helpful links:</div><div>
</div>https://www.personalcaremagazine.com/story/13929/lipstick-formulation-not-as-easy-as-you-might-think<div>
</div><div>https://www.personalcaremagazine.com/story/11016/natural-wax-a-problem-solver-in-lipstick
<div>
</div><div>
</div></div>
personalcaremagazine.com
Lipstick formulation: not as easy as you might think
Long lasting, hydrating, matting, plumping: these are all qualities we read about in lipstick advertisements. With new slogans and the guarantee of unique quality, producers encourage us to buy new products. Oil/wax systems sound simple and uncomplicated, but what exactly … Continue reading
Log in to reply.