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  • Update Emulsifiers and bubbles

    Posted by nkpalaci on August 26, 2024 at 5:40 pm

    Hello there! I’m back with updates, to the thread “Facial cream emulsifier recommendations” that I created weeks ago. https://chemistscorner.com/cosmeticsciencetalk/discussion/emulsifiers-recommendation-for-facial-cream

    ***(pictures attached).
    I did 3 tests of 300g each to evaluate the bubbling behavior. Each test was designed for different purposes and to find out the behavior of SSG (sodium stearoyl glutamate), GSC (glyceryl stearate citrate), both anionic, and Olivem 1000 (the headache, I think).

    Homogenized for 1 min, at 2 or 2 1/2 speeds of the MiniPro homogenizer. Then 1 hr of stirrer low speed (I don’t have rpm).

    None of them passed the test completely, but the most notoriously bubbly was No.1.

    The process was from a test base formula (%): 3 glycerin, 0.2 clear xanthan, 2 emulsifiers and % cetearyl alcohol. Up to 100 water

    plus

    formula No.1: 3% O1000 + 0.25% SSG + 1.5% cetearyl + 5% MTC + 6% sunflower oil.

    Purpose: semi-viscous facial cream.// O1000 phase W and SSG phase O.

    formula No.2: 2% GSC (O phase) + 0.3% SSG (O phase) + 2 cetearyl + 8% sunflower oil.

    Purpose: bubble test without Olivem 1000, fluid cream. (I separated 100g with a stirrer and the rest with a handblender after homogenizing, only had difference in viscosity).

    Formula No. 3: 4% O1000 + 0.5% SSG + 2% Cetearyl + 8% Sunflower oil. //O1000 phase O.

    Purpose: To increase the thickness of the first formula and to examine the difference in bubbles.

    I took macro photos of the 3 formulas 24 hrs later. I also photographed an old cream that was a mess, due to my handling of the homogenizer.

    comments, support, boos and suggestions are welcome.

    Thanks for reading this far.

    • This discussion was modified 3 months, 3 weeks ago by  nkpalaci.
    nkpalaci replied 1 month, 1 week ago 2 Members · 7 Replies
  • 7 Replies
  • nkpalaci

    Member
    August 28, 2024 at 9:38 am

    Hi guys, sorry for the inconvenience.
    Could some of you help me with a word about this? Please 🙏
    @Perry44 @Graillotion @Aniela @ketchito @catherine.pratt @ggpetrov

    • nkpalaci

      Member
      August 28, 2024 at 9:50 am

      One detail. F n°2 seems bubble-free, but I let a small layer dehydrate and after two days, several small bubbles were visible.
      I know time is valuable, but any help would be appreciated.

    • Perry44

      Administrator
      August 28, 2024 at 9:54 am

      You haven’t asked a question. You simply put “update” then gave some pictures and description.

      If you want some assistance please summarize what the problem is and what further questions you want answered.

      Honestly, there are dozens of discussions going on here. If you want a response you have to make it EASY to answer. You can’t expect people to go back and review the entire previous thread to figure out what you want to know now.

      • nkpalaci

        Member
        August 28, 2024 at 11:34 am

        Absolutely right, sorry.

        My question is if you have any advice or suggestions on the formulas I wrote or procedure to improve the bubble problem? Thanks 🙂

        *I appreciated the above helps so I didn’t want to leave the information hanging. I also gave details innocently thought it may help someone else following the thread. Sorry again.

        • Perry44

          Administrator
          August 29, 2024 at 11:41 am

          I think your bubble problem is more a reflection of how you are making your batches rather than the formula itself. If you are using a homogenizer on a 300g batch, I doubt your able to get the head of the homogenizer to be completely submerged. So one strategy would be to make bigger batches.

  • nkpalaci

    Member
    August 30, 2024 at 7:34 am

    Thanks for your reply, Perry. I’ll check out that too.

    Apologies again 🙂

  • nkpalaci

    Member
    November 11, 2024 at 10:22 am

    In case anyone comes here looking for answers:
    For me, the solutions were:

    • Use a stand and clamp to hold the minipro.
    • Add xanthan gel to the stirrer, not before.

    Best regards!

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