Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating Unboxing surprise…Ultra volatile ingredient…. how do I keep it in a product?

  • Unboxing surprise…Ultra volatile ingredient…. how do I keep it in a product?

    Posted by Graillotion on December 28, 2022 at 10:10 am

    As I was exploring the world of emollients that are not strong solvents, I came across an ultra volatile form of dimethicone, which is more volatile than Cyclopentasiloxane,  Cyclotetrasiloxane, or Trisiloxane.  I try about 100 new ingredients annually, and this dimethicone is the first thing since I discovered Polymethylsilsesquioxane a couple of years ago, to knock my socks off.

    I came across it on the Thai site.  Often the English explanations look like they are done with Google Translate, so when I saw the label of ‘Dimethicone 1Secs’ my mind just assumed it was Google translate converting ‘cSt’ to ‘Secs’.  Well upon further review, I discovered they meant….it evaporates in 1second!  Of course I was pretty skeptical of this…as emollients for the most part…always disappoint me.  But WOW…it evaporates in 1 second upon application to skin neat.  If you put it on really heavy…it might take as many as 3 seconds!  The after feel…is silky powdery, with no gloss.  If I had to make a comparison…. with D5… The D5 would be like avocado oil…and the dimethicone 1Secs (which is actually rated at point 5 cSt) would be CCT.  Yeah….when I applied them side by side I could hear the dimethicone discussing with the cyclomethicone…. “So you really think we are family?  Well you are from the really shallow end of the gene pool!”  Simply no comparison.  I should say I just recently purchased dimethicone 6 cSt…and did not care for it at all.

    So here is my quandary.  How to I formulate a hot process emulsion….and still end up with some of this in the final formula, for the customer to enjoy?  It is slated for my emulsified deo, which already has 7% D5, and several powders ranging from porous silica, to MCC, and distarch phosphate.  I am used to pre-loading things like the silica with D5, so it doesn’t absorb lipids…and was wondering….is this a method to help hold it in place until it can be closed up in the packaging?  Or would combining it with the D5, which I still plan on maintaining, help with it being less volatile?  I probably don’t include enough silica to hold several percent of the dimethicone….so wondering if the MCC or distarch phosphate could play host….until we got the lid on?  Due to the fact that it still has a lot of water, my plan is to create the illusion of ultra quick drying with an extreme cascade of emollience.

    It would certainly help if I could find the mfg….and read their process recommendations.  Does anyone know who makes .5 cSt dimethicone?  A cursory glance through ULP….and I was unable to navigate to something similar.

    Aloha, and I look forward to hearing from the brain trust….on how I can make a product….using such a volatile ingredient….and it still being in the product, come time to use it.

    PhilGeis replied 1 year, 3 months ago 2 Members · 1 Reply
  • 1 Reply
  • PhilGeis

    December 28, 2022 at 1:56 pm

    How have you established safety for this ingredient/

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