Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating Thickning of sulfate free face wash

  • Thickning of sulfate free face wash

    Posted by SunilHiwarkat1965 on September 13, 2023 at 3:21 am

    Hello Everybody!!

    Currently working on a cold processible sulfate free face wash. The formula I tried is as bellow:-

    30% Sodium Cocyl Glycinate— 17.50% (5.25% active)

    30%Sodium Lauryl sarcosinate— 6.50% (1.95% active)

    30% CAPB— 12% (3.60%active)

    PEG-7 Glyceryl cocoate— 2%

    39%Polyquarternium 7— 1%

    Euxyl K-510— 0.15%

    Polysorbate 20— 2.40%

    Fragrance— 0.60%

    30% Acrylates co-polymer— 7/8/10% ( ie used at different active levels- 2.10/2.40/3.00% respectively. )

    Water— qs.

    I got some viscosity at every active level of Acrylates co-polymer. But it lacks the smooth flow.

    I request honorable members to guide me for improvising the flow. Thanks in advance.

    PS- I have 29%Aculyne-88 ( Acrylates/Steareth-20/Methacrylate Cross Polymer) in hand.

    SunilHiwarkat1965 replied 1 week, 2 days ago 2 Members · 10 Replies
  • 10 Replies
  • ketchito

    September 13, 2023 at 6:58 am

    What’s the pH of your product? Sodium cocoyl glycinate gives a pH-dependent viscosity. I believe around a pH of 6 you can get the highest viscosity, but I’d advise you to try different viscosities, from 5.5 to 7.0.

  • SunilHiwarkat1965

    September 13, 2023 at 7:40 am

    Thank you @ketchito . I had tried this Formulation at different viscosities but the Acrylates co-polymer provides optimum viscosity & clarity at pH 6.5.

    What can be the other route?

    Shall I increase active % of anoinic surfactant or shall I increase CAPB ?

    Does replacement in part or total of CAPB with Sodium coco-amphoacetate can increase the viscosity?

    Shall I add Lauryl Glucoside?

    Will Aculyne-88 can resolve this issue ?

    Your reply really really gave me a moral boost. Thank you once again


  • ketchito

    September 13, 2023 at 11:45 am

    No worries. Now, Sarcosinates are hard to thicken surfactants. Can you replace it with Sodium C14-16 olefin sulfonate? The latter has a better viscosity response when mixed with CAPB (not as high as SLES, but decent), and will help you save some money. Also, you cal try /removingreducing Polysorbate 20 (which can also reduce viscosity). Most surfactant-based formulas don’t require a solubilizer for the fragrance.

  • ketchito

    September 13, 2023 at 12:05 pm

    Also, if you don’t have anything to suspend (like silicones, oils or beads), then you could replace your acrylates by Crothix Liquid, which works well on sulfate free formulas, and at low levels.

  • SunilHiwarkat1965

    September 13, 2023 at 3:12 pm

    Thanks once again. Client require only 100 kg. So it seems difficult to purchase the crothix liquid. Also croda has their own style of functioning.

    I will ask about balance sulfonate stock to the contract manufacturer. Other wise it also will create a difficult situation as it comes only as 210 kg Pack.

    But I can manage small pack of Sodium Cocyl Glutamate ( I know it is also difficult to thicken ).

    Btw, are you not sure about Aculyne-88?

    I have easy access to HEC, sepimax zen. Kindly suggest.

  • ketchito

    September 13, 2023 at 10:16 pm

    Sodium Cocoyl Glutamate is the worst when it comes to viscosity, I actually use it when some product got too thick, to reduce viscosity. Aculyn 88 is fine. Also, if Crothix Liquid is Hard to get, there’s also Genapol LT from Clariant.

    • SunilHiwarkat1965

      September 14, 2023 at 3:15 am

      πŸ˜†πŸ˜†very true. I really wonder how others use Sodium Cocyl Glutamate?

      I will check with clarirent about Ginapol LT. Simultaneously I will try Aculyne-88. Let you know the trial results asap( may take few days since I am occupied with family function).

      Thanks Ketchito. Once again you are very helpful to me as usual .πŸ™‚πŸ™‚

  • SunilHiwarkat1965

    September 14, 2023 at 5:28 am

    @ketchito, just one query - hope you don’t mind.πŸ™‚

    While using Acrylates co-polymer/ Acculyn 88 in shampoo, when should we add Dimethicone? Before or after addition of thickners so that it will remain well suspended through out the product shelf life.

  • ketchito

    September 14, 2023 at 5:57 am

    No worries. Since you’re using the liquid versions, it doesn’t matter if you add thicnener before or after dimethicone. Good luck!

    • SunilHiwarkat1965

      September 14, 2023 at 8:01 am

      Thank you very much sir.πŸ™‚πŸ™‚

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