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The low down on soaping…the how’s and why’s (in lotion).
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Oh, an update on the hemisqualane. Replacing caprylic/capric triglyceride, it’s given a much more fluid consistency (it can be poured out of the container now), very slightly whiter emulsion, and has a thin oily nature on application, almost as if you’re putting on a light oil (like the Plantasens Olive LD) on the skin neat. But after it’s absorbed, the skin feels really soft and silky (more so than when using CCT). The whitening is decreased - it’s much harder to make it whiten. But I need to work out how to add thickening back in without making it gluey, more whitening (which would defeat the purpose of using hemisqualane), draggy or greasy. I think I need less hemisqualane than the original amount of CCT as well.
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helenhelen said:Replacing caprylic/capric triglyceride,Not sure how many places you tried getting your CCT from…but I found that the suppliers were selling incredibly different products…as CCT. From some places the CCT was one of the most oily non-absorbing items in my oil blend…and CCT bought from other places….performed as expected. If you are dissatisfied with your CCT…you might consider buying from a few other reputable sellers.
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I discovered that….while do dabs on my arm….of all my oils…
I make a grid on my skin…and take a Q-tip….and dab the oils, and observe the absorption over the next 20-60 min.
So when the CCT scored bad…I had from 3 suppliers…I tested the 3 against each other…and was blown away. -
Graillotion said:Not sure how many places you tried getting your CCT from…but I found that the suppliers were selling incredibly different products…as CCT. From some places the CCT was one of the most oily non-absorbing items in my oil blend…and CCT bought from other places….performed as expected. If you are dissatisfied with your CCT…you might consider buying from a few other reputable sellers.
Thanks, that’s true, I should try it out and compare it to other versions I’ve tried. The current one isn’t particularly oily, non-absorbing or dissatisfying.. it’s just that CCT is in the formula mostly for spreadability.. but not for actual moisturisation. So I figured if I was going to introduce a light, high-spreading oil, the CCT would take the fall.
Having left the cream I made last night to ripen, I’m not sure I love the hemisqualane. On its own, it’s very light, thin (water-like) and absorbs quickly. But in the cream, when the cream is spread on the skin, it’s as if all the oils are immediately released from the emulsion and it’s more like spreading a mixture of liquid neat oils rather than spreading a cream. If I decide to keep it in the formulation, I think I probably should keep a combo of CCT and hemisqualane rather than replace it all.
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Graillotion said:Loving reading this chat!
All I know…is with a few tweaks I have eliminated the soaping, in my opinion, entirely. Basically in a nut shell… removing all (added) stearic, adding a little cetyl (see chemical Matt’s comment….up near the top.) And adding two slipperies at relatively high levels, the afore mentioned Hydrogenated Ethylhexyl Olivate (and) Hydrogenated Olive Oil Unsaponifiables, and my new favorite ingredient, Isoamyl Laurate (super spreader).
All this…and no ‘Cones’, but every bit the feeling of ‘Cones. The IL does the trick…at 6% inclusion! Not as cheap as ‘cones’….but with stimulus checks….who cares? :#That…and Pharma has been an amazing help! Thank You!
Hey! The soaping effect has been something that’s bugged me for ages when I tried to make myself a cream. I’ve changed my emulsifier, swapped out steric acid for 2% cetyl, I’ve got Hydrogenated Olive Oil Unsaponifiables in the recipe (5%), and taking your suggestion here on board I’ve used Isoamyl Laurate (6%). Yet it’s still soaping!! Honestly, it’s been driving me mental how nothing seems to work. I wondered if you could share some of your percentages for this batch that seemed to work out for you. How much emulsifier do you use, or suggest to use?
Essentially my recipe is 68% water phase, and the rest is a mix of oils, including 2% cetyl, 6% IL, 5% HOOU and 3% Caprylic/capric triglyceride.
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For the second question, the soaping is the little bubble while you smear (hand slide with your cream) the lotion ,so the way we solve that problem is to add some ingredient to decrease surface tension and reduce bubbles, such as alcohol , dimethicone.
I’ve tried Sensolene Light ET(not sure if I could write the name directly if I should’t please tell me) ,which has a low surface tension. And it works!The effect is good as Dimethicon in Glyceryl Stearate, PEG-100 Stearate lotion. -
Graillotion said:Loving reading this chat! All I know…is with a few tweaks I have eliminated the soaping, in my opinion, entirely. Basically in a nut shell… removing all (added) stearic, adding a little cetyl (see chemical Matt’s comment….up near the top.) And adding two slipperies at relatively high levels, the afore mentioned Hydrogenated Ethylhexyl Olivate (and) Hydrogenated Olive Oil Unsaponifiables, and my new favorite ingredient, Isoamyl Laurate (super spreader).
All this…and no ‘Cones’, but every bit the feeling of ‘Cones. The IL does the trick…at 6% inclusion! Not as cheap as ‘cones’….but with stimulus checks….who cares? :#That…and Pharma has been an amazing help! Thank You!
Hey! The soaping effect has been something that’s bugged me for ages when I tried to make myself a cream. I’ve changed my emulsifier, swapped out steric acid for 2% cetyl, I’ve got Hydrogenated Olive Oil Unsaponifiables in the recipe (5%), and taking your suggestion here on board I’ve used Isoamyl Laurate (6%). Yet it’s still soaping!! Honestly, it’s been driving me mental how nothing seems to work. I wondered if you could share some of your percentages for this batch that seemed to work out for you. How much emulsifier do you use, or suggest to use?
Essentially my recipe is 68% water phase, and the rest is a mix of oils, including 2% cetyl, 6% IL, 5% HOOU and 3% Caprylic/capric triglyceride.
What was your emulsifier?
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