Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating Advanced Questions The key to Paula’s Choice Unscrub dissolving Jojoba beads

  • The key to Paula’s Choice Unscrub dissolving Jojoba beads

    Posted by Alchemix on June 30, 2022 at 2:52 pm

    How in the world does Paula’s Choice(PC) Unscrub get the Jojoba Esters to “dissolve” under pressure? 

    Background: I have been making a Jojoba Bead scrub with inspiration from PC Unscrub. Can’t for the life of me figure out how PC manages to get the Jojoba beads to “dissolve”. It doesn’t seem to be temperature, surfactant, or the addition of water.  I say “dissolve” because it appears to be just that the bead gets mushed(tested by isolating a bead with a metal spatula and pressed it against a spot glass).

    Guessing there’s some reaction with the oils/emulsifier that softens them, as I’ve tried so many types of jojoba beads and vendors at this point. 

    Notes: Unscrub seems to be using Sepigel 305 

    Water⁠, Jojoba Esters⁠, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride⁠, Glycerin⁠, PEG-20 Methyl Glucose Sesquistearate⁠, Methyl Glucose Sesquistearate⁠, Tocopheryl Acetate⁠, Decyl Glucoside⁠, PPG-20 Methyl Glucose Ether⁠, Glyceryl Stearate⁠, Stearyl Alcohol⁠, Polyacrylamide⁠, Sapindus Mukurossi Peel Extract⁠, Chamomilla Recutita (Matricaria) Flower Extract ⁠, Camellia Oleifera (Green Tea) Leaf Extract⁠, Xanthan Gum⁠, C13-14 Isoparaffin⁠, Caprylyl Glycol⁠, Citric Acid⁠, Disodium EDTA⁠, Laureth-7⁠, Phenoxyethanol⁠, Ethylhexylglycerin⁠

    Graillotion replied 1 year, 10 months ago 3 Members · 2 Replies
  • 2 Replies
  • MarkBroussard

    June 30, 2022 at 3:05 pm


    Inquire with Floratech … they probably have or can guide you to a product that they manufacture or know of that gives that effect.

  • Graillotion

    July 5, 2022 at 3:41 am

    Sounds like you have already checked with Floratech (as Mark suggested)…but the first place my mind goes…when I see Jojoba esters….as that is the INCI for one of their beads.

    Interactive_Particles_Brochure.pdf (floratech.com)

    If the beads…are dissolving/breaking down on application….sounds like they are using there Florasomes or their Floraspheres, which are much softer, and break under moderate pressure.

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