Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating TEC as an emollient.

  • TEC as an emollient.

    Posted by graillotion on November 20, 2022 at 2:42 am

    As I was perusing ULP for some tidbits on TEC… I came across some of the same info I have read many times before.  I will paste a couple of the marketing propaganda claims below.  I have an emulsified body butter I am finishing up….that I am only about 98% happy with…. and looking for something to push it over the edge…   What do you think of these ‘claims’ for TEC?  As I make deo now….I have big jugs of it on hand.

    TEC is the triester formed by the esterification of citric acid and ethanol. On rub-in it exhibits film forming cushion and a unique silicone-like silkiness that eventually rubs to dryness. 

    EnSense™ Silk TEC is a dry emollient for lightweight, long lasting moisture. The EnSense™ Ester platform of ingredients provides a variety of benefits, such as improved barrier function of the skin, increased moisturization, reduced soaping effect, improved slip and glide, softening and smoothing. In formulation, they also function as solubilizers 

    multifunctional emolient with hydrating properties, clear and innodour, with a quick absortion and silky and soft skinfeel. Ellegant touch for premium textures. Suitable for alcohol derived formulae like added value parfums or sunscreens

    Is this wishful thinking from the marketing department?  Or is the TEC sitting on my shelf….the last 2% of the formula I am looking to tweak?  I use lots of TEC…but for the most part….not as an emollient.  Anyone out there…using TEC as an emollient???

    Aloha.

    @chemicalmatt

    @Vitalys

    squinny replied 1 year, 2 months ago 4 Members · 10 Replies
  • 10 Replies
  • graillotion

    Member
    November 20, 2022 at 3:28 am

    Acme Hardesty had several moisturizer formulas with a range of 2-9% TEC.  If anyone is using it as an emollient, what is your use rate.  I only have about 2% room to play with…so that was going to be my initial shot.

    BTW…I am sure many of the professional comments will be related to COG’s….and for me… and my small MOQ purchases….I can buy TEC for exactly half the price of Isoamyl laurate! :(

    I should state…the formula already has Isoamyl laurate, IPM and Lauryl laurate.

  • graillotion

    Member
    November 22, 2022 at 12:01 am

    Well….to answer my own question… OMG TEC is an amazing emollient.  Subbed TEC for most of my Isoamyl Laurate…and OMG…I liked the product better.  Non-greasy…and velvety smooth.

    Is TEC the best kept secret in the biz….and we’re not supposed to talk about it….just keep the secret to ourselves?  I’ll shut up…if I am letting the cat out of the bag.  :D 

  • squinny

    Member
    November 22, 2022 at 1:40 am

    Cool - assume you added your 2% or did you add more? The docs I have say 5% is the limit (or is that not correct?) So is it ok to add the Oil phase (heated) for  formula? I’ll put some in my next body lotion for myself to check it out as I have now a lot left over I wont use in my Deo. Cheers :)

  • graillotion

    Member
    November 22, 2022 at 2:08 am

    Squinny said:

    Cool - assume you added your 2% or did you add more? The docs I have say 5% is the limit (or is that not correct?) So is it ok to add the Oil phase (heated) for  formula? I’ll put some in my next body lotion for myself to check it out as I have now a lot left over I wont use in my Deo. Cheers :)

    I actually went with 3% (this is still just about a third of the emollients, kept the IPM and Lauryl laurate).  But looking through formulas….they were going MUCH higher (than 5).  Just put it on the back of your hand neat…and observe for an hour…hehehe….you’ll keep touching your hand.  Also very moisturizing…or at least gives that sensory perception.  No residual oil feel on the surface, and this was pretty oily product…. 15% natural lipids.

    One of my mentors uses TEC at a range of 3-22%, as an emollient.  It is not bothered by heat…so just toss into your oil phase at the beginning….unless you are pairing it with volatile partners like EO’s or fragrance.

    I am fortunate (USA) to have a supplier where I can get it for half the price of Isoamyl laurate (repacker price). 

  • GeorgeBenson

    Member
    November 22, 2022 at 4:27 am

    @Graillotion I notice it has a smell that kinda reminds me of mosquito repellant, not terrible but not my favorite…at 2-3% does the smell usually carry through to the final product or is it masked by other oils/fragrances?

  • graillotion

    Member
    November 22, 2022 at 4:49 am

    Where did you source yours from? @GeorgeBenson

    Mine has a very faint…maybe fruity wine smell.

    I have not found it to carry through…however I do use some form of fragrance in everything.

    I did make a batch (per client request) of unscented deo, which uses 5% TEC…and again did not notice it in final formula.

  • GeorgeBenson

    Member
    November 22, 2022 at 11:21 am

    Same place as you, HBNO. I still haven’t used it in a formula yet though. 

  • squinny

    Member
    November 23, 2022 at 12:51 am

    @Graillotion thanks very much for that advice appreciate it. The TEC I bought from Trulux Australia outrageously expensive (50ml = $50 so $1 a ml) and only has a very faint aroma. I haven’t opened the one I got from MySkinRecipes yet (but I bought 250ml which worked out to be $0.10 a ml - so once I open I’ll let you guys know if it smells or not - for the difference in price I dont care :). I also use TEC in my Deo and find it has no particular aroma before I add fragrance to the mix and since adding this my Deo is stable and works a treat. Again big thanks you for putting me onto TEC :)

  • pharma

    Member
    November 25, 2022 at 8:26 pm

    Squinny said:

    …I haven’t opened the one I got from MySkinRecipes yet (but I bought 250ml which worked out to be $0.10 a ml - so once I open I’ll let you guys know if it smells or not - for the difference in price I dont care :)

    Looking forward to your observation. Got several products from MSR and they all seem totally fine. Guess I’ll reorder there sooner or later and if their TEC is good quality, I’ll likely restock with that.
    So far, all aluminium-free deodorants I’ve ever tried either failed or contained TEC (never made one myself, I use TEC mainly as solvent and to stabilise urea).
  • squinny

    Member
    November 27, 2022 at 12:23 am

    hi @Pharma I opened the bottle of TEC (from MSR - I got 500ml and it is packaged in a 1000 ml white plastic container bottle, with a proper seal underneath the cap). It does have a faint odor (sort of alkaline smell?) but nothing really noticeable and certainly not unpleasant. I haven’t used it yet and probably wont for another few weeks so I’ll see if it performs the same in my Deodorant - I cant believe the difference TEC makes to my Deo - Mind you I only make in a 100ml batch at a time and for my partner and myself and he reckons it’s the best he has used and he is often the bush in humid conditions so win for me. :)

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