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  • Surfactants for AHA cleanser

    Posted by Storm on October 29, 2020 at 2:53 am

    Hi fellow formulators

    I’m having trouble choosing the right surfactants for a gentle AHA cleanser, pH=4.5, sulfate free.
    Below is what I have tested so far;
    1- 10% Sodium Cocoyl Glutamate (Plantapon ACG HC) in water
    - Reducing the pH to 5.0 using Lactic Acid, completely opaque, viscosity broke, after 5 minutes sitting without mixing, turned to an opaque gel.
    2- 10% Disodium Cocoamphodiacetate (Dehyton DC-AS) in water
    - Reducing the pH to 5.8 using Lactic Acid, completely opaque
    3- 10% Sodium Lauramphodiacetate in water
    - Reducing the pH to 4.5 using Lactic Acid, clear no sediment
    4- 10% Coco Glucoside or 10% Caprylyl/Capryl Glucoside in water
    - Reducing the pH to 4 using Lactic Acid, they both stay clear with no sediments.
    My questions are:
    - What is the best Anionic surfactant (sulfate free) option for pH around 4.5?
    - Why Cocoamphodiacetate is unstable at low pH while Lauramphodiacetate is stable?
    - Between Coco Glucoside and Caprylyl/Capryl Glucoside, which one has a better foam and milder?
    - Is there a source to compare surfactants mildness, foam and pH stability?
    Thanks for reading this long post and hope to hear your thoughts.
    Storm replied 3 years, 3 months ago 1 Member · 1 Reply
  • 1 Reply
  • Storm

    October 29, 2020 at 3:19 am

    I’ve accidentally posted this under general category and had to repost under formulating as I can’t move this one!

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