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Sulfate-free, silicone-free, paraben-free shampoo foam
Hi!
Lately i’ve been working on a sulfate-free, silicone-free, amine-free and paraben-free shampoo. The formula that i have as of now works pretty amazing, but i think that the foam could be a little bit better. The product I have now provides a good feeling, doesn’t irritate the scalp, doesn’t dry out my hair, and has good cleansing capability. What I’m looking for now is to maximize its foam production, either by adjusting the ratio of my surfactants or by adding/removing a surfactant. On another note, do you think my surfactant phase is sufficient? Am I adding too many surfactants, either percentage-wise or ingredient-wise?
This is the formula i currently have.
PHASE A
Water 44.80
Chemoryl SFB (Disodium Laureth Sulfosuccinate (and) Sodium Cocyl Isethionate (and) Cocamidopropyl Betaine) 8.4
Cocamidopropyl Betaine 11.2
Sodium Cocyl Isethionate 1
Sodium C12-14 Olefin Sulfonate 8.4
Hydroxysultaine 5
PHASE B
Water 15
Arginine 0.5
Polyquaternium-10 0.275
Polyquaternium-7 0.275
Cetiol HE (Peg-7 Glycetyl cocoate) 0.5
EDTA 0.120
Prodew 500 (Sodium PCA,Sodium Lactate,Arginine,Aspartic Acid ,PCA,Glycine,Alanine,Serine, Valine,Proline,Threonine,Isoleucine,Histidine,Phenylalanine and Water) 0.5
Panthenol 1
Jojoba Pro HP (Hydrolyzed Jojoba Protein) 1
PHASE C
Phenoxyethanol 0.5
Fragance 0.7
Glucamate (Methyl Glucose Trioleate PEG-120, Propylene Glycol and water) 0.75
Mix Phase A. Mix Phase B until fully homogenized. Add Phase B to Phase A and stir until combined. Finally, add Phase C to the AB mixture
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1 Reply
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Hi @natasha-acendra ,
In my opinion, you could simplify this formula without affecting the performance significantly, and maybe even boost the foam in the process.
Since the Chemoryl SFB blend already contains Disodium Laureth Sulfosuccinate, Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate, and Cocamidopropyl Betaine, you could try increasing its usage level instead of adding separate Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate and Cocamidopropyl Betaine. The blend is likely optimized for synergistic ratios. I recommend testing the formula with 10–15% active matter of Chemoryl SFB and seeing how it performs in terms of foam and cleansing.
Since you already have Cocamidopropyl Betaine as a secondary surfactant and foam booster in the blend, you might not need Hydroxysultaine. Removing it could help simplify the formula without impacting performance significantly.
Sodium C12-14 Olefin Sulfonate is a strong cleanser, but it might not be necessary if the Chemoryl SFB provides sufficient cleansing on its own. Consider removing it and testing the blend’s performance. If more cleansing power is needed, you can reintroduce it at a lower percentage.
Using both Polyquaternium-10 and Polyquaternium-7 may be unnecessary. I’d suggest keeping Polyquaternium-10 as it tends to work better in shampoos and contributes more to conditioning and detangling. Removing Polyquaternium-7 could simplify the formula and reduce the chance of build-up.
The Prodew 500 blend already includes arginine, so adding extra arginine might be redundant. You could remove the standalone arginine without affecting the formula.
I would recommend cutting the Panthenol to claims levels or at least in half.
You might also consider using Hydroxypropyl Methylcellulose to thicken your shampoo, it is said to work as a foam stabilizer.
Good luck!
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