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Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating Hair Suggestion needed to improve leave in conditioner

  • Suggestion needed to improve leave in conditioner

    Posted by Itsao on May 5, 2023 at 3:48 pm

    Hi all, thank you so much for reading my post. Thank you so much in advance for your help. I am new to formulating and i have been trying to create a leave hair conditioner for my curly hair for the last few months. The properties which i wanted for my conditioner to have is to allow easy detangling, moisturise my hair and just make it easy to manage.

    My current formula consists

    70% distilled water

    8% Aloe vera Juice,

    2% Glycerin

    Oil phase:

    Mango butter 5%

    BTMS 50 5%

    Sweet almond oil 2%

    Grape seed oil 5%

    Cetyl alcohol 3%

    Cool down

    Preservative 1%

    Panthenol 0.75%

    Vit E 1%

    My conditioner detangles little bit i would love if it would have more slip to allow easy combing. I would really appreciate if you can provide me feedback.

    Itsao replied 3 weeks, 5 days ago 4 Members · 6 Replies
  • 6 Replies
  • ccchem

    May 6, 2023 at 3:31 am

    Look into cetrimonium chloride, it’s a great detangler and also reduces static. You can use it up to 0.25% in leave on products. Cetrimonium chloride is typically purchased as an aqueous solution with approximately 30% concentration, so you would have to consider that when determining the correct maximum amount for your formula.

    Guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride will help with the slip from 0.01 to 0.15% in leave in products.

    • This reply was modified 4 weeks, 1 day ago by  ccchem.
    • Itsao

      DIY formulator
      May 6, 2023 at 8:50 am

      Thank you so much for your reply ccchem. I appreciate it so much. I will look into adding Centrimonium chloride and Guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride into my formula.

  • ketchito

    May 6, 2023 at 11:01 pm

    I agree with @ccchem with adding CTC for the static. Nevertheless, for slip, you need a lubricant, like dimethicone or mineral oil.

    Btw, don’t you feel yoir hair heavy and a biy greasy with that load of natural oils and butter? Silicones and esters are the most pleasant way to add lubricity, unless you don’t want silicones in your formulas.

    I’d remove Aloe Vera Gel and Glycerine since what you really want is to make hair surface more hudrophobic, and those two of course don’t help.

    • Itsao

      DIY formulator
      May 7, 2023 at 5:03 am

      Thank you so much for your reply @ketchito

      My hair actually does feel little oily with my conditioner, i will definitely try to reduce the oils and butter usage to 1% ~ 2% in my next version of my leave in conditioner and also add Centrimonium chloride 0.25%

      I have been trying to stay away from silicones but i will research about types of esters that can help with lubricity.

      I was wrong to think adding aloe vera and glycerin would help me retain moisture. Thank you for enlightening me about this.

  • chemicalmatt

    May 8, 2023 at 11:17 am

    I would cut all that oil and butter down by at least half and add Polyquaternium-7 at 2 - 5%. Problem solved. Wet comb, dry comb, all comb.

    • Itsao

      DIY formulator
      May 8, 2023 at 2:28 pm

      Thank you so much @chemicalmatt

      I really appreciate your feedback. I will definitely cut the oil and butters to very minimal and add polyquaternium-7 in my next version of my leave in conditioner.

      Everyone has been so helpful, i honestly feel so grateful to you all.