Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating General Suggestion for Cooling and tightening chemicals ??

  • Suggestion for Cooling and tightening chemicals ??

    Posted by DavidW on June 26, 2014 at 8:59 pm

    I am looking for suggestions of 2 separate chemicals to use in a deodorant stick base.  One that will have a cooling effect and one tightening of the skin.  Menthol is out.  I have tried Frecolat products and they don’t work.  I have also tried Skin tight but it doesn’t work in this base either.  Because of heat required to make this it would be pointless to use alcohol in the formulation.  Thanks.

    DavidW replied 10 years ago 5 Members · 6 Replies
  • 6 Replies
  • pf_holden

    June 27, 2014 at 11:17 am

    is menthyl lactate excluded as well?

    renessenz has a winsense that a lot people use in lip products to get the tingling.  INCI: Ethyl
    Menthane Carboxamide.

    interpolymer has a syntran pc5100 for tightening but i am not quite positive it can be used in a stick…
  • chemicalmatt

    June 27, 2014 at 5:49 pm

    David, how about using good old witch hazel as the astringent; and why is menthol out of bounds? Frescolat is menthyl lactate if memory serves, and it will be effective at 2.0% or more (compared to 0.5% menthol).  That will get very expensive though.  How about Coolact P from Takasago also? Expensive, but cools skin OK.

  • DavidW

    June 27, 2014 at 9:50 pm

    Thanks Holden & Matt for the replies .  This stick is going to be a line of products for use on the face and and 2 of then under the eyes.  One for puffy eyes and one for dark circles.  The customer wants them in a round propel/repel stick that holds about 1oz.  The only thing I could think of to formulate the base was based on a deodorant stick. 
    Menthol is out because customer doesn’t want the smell and under they eyes it may irritate the eye.  Frescolat (Menthyl Lactate) didn’t give any feeling.  I have a sample of Cool Act 10 that we may try.

    Holden, years ago someone gave me a sample of something for tightening.  I couldn’t remember what it was but I have been calling all my suppliers asking.  Now that I see it, it is the Interpolymer product you mentioned.  Thank you very much.  I am going to get a sample of that.

    Oh, and for tightening I also tried something from makingcosmetics.com called Skint Tight AP which works in creams or serums but not giving the effect in the stick.  Below is the base of the stick.

    Off the top of my head it is about:
    Water 40%
    Propylene Glycol 25%
    Butylene Glycol 12%
    Sodium Stearate5%
    Not sure what else.

  • vitalys

    June 28, 2014 at 3:21 am

    David, I think the deodorant base stick is not suitable here. I think you may want to use any base for color cosmetic sticks. I remember I have made very simmilar product and the base contains approximately the following -
    Cetearyl alcohol ~20%
    Ceteareth 20 ~ 25%
    Shea butter~7-10%
    Aloe butter~ 5-7%
    Soy wax~ 10-20%
    add some liquid emolients- Isopropyl Myristate and alike
    You can even make the clear stick base containing water and ceteareth 20 - it’s quite tricky in preparation but resulting in nice feel and product esthetics. I need to revise my records so I could write back with the formulation of this clear base.

    As the astringent try Tannin 2-4% in you formulation. It has perfect capabilities. I have tried a lot of astringents but I find Tannin the best one in cosmetics.

  • Sarah

    June 29, 2014 at 4:53 pm

    Hi David,

    We use a product called Myoxinol LS 9736 from Cognis for tightening in our eye serums - it is a bit pricey though.

  • DavidW

    July 9, 2014 at 2:06 pm

    @Sarah thank you

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