Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating Stability Test Discoloration

  • Stability Test Discoloration

    Posted by Alchemix on November 14, 2023 at 9:15 am


    I have a moisturizer that goes from a pure white to an off white with a slight greenish/yellow tone to it after just 1 month.

    I plan on making several individual batches to test and isolate what the problem maker is, but I am hoping someone here may have an idea which ingredient is the culprit, so that I can figure this out sooner and with way less hours spent.

    Borage and Tocopherol are really the only items that have a non clear/white color and i’m also curious if centella acts liike green tea extract in some capacity and discolors over time, but all those ingredients are in such small amounts.

    What do you think it may be?
    Thanks for the help!

    <google-sheets-html-origin></google-sheets-html-origin>Water 66-68%

    Propanediol 4-5%

    Niacinamide 3-5%

    Glyceryl Stearate + PEG 100 Stearate - 2-4%

    Dimethicone 2-4%

    Cetyl Alcohol 2-3%

    Cyclomethicone 1-3%

    Squalane 1-3%

    Glycerin 1-2%

    Cetearyl Olivate + Sorbitan Olivate .5-2%

    Centella Asiatica Extract (Glycerin, water, centella) - 1%

    Urea - 1%

    Phenonip - 1%

    Bisabolol - .5-1%

    Xanthan Gum .1%

    Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer .28%

    Sodium Hydroxide - .5%

    HA - .01%

    Ceramides .01%

    Panthenol .5-1.5%

    Disodium EDTA -.2%

    Triacetin .1%

    Borage Seed Oil - .5%

    Alpha Arbutin - .2%

    Tocopherol - .1%

    • This discussion was modified 6 months ago by  Alchemix.
    Perry44 replied 6 months ago 2 Members · 1 Reply
  • 1 Reply
  • Perry44

    November 20, 2023 at 6:49 am

    Some possibilities…

    1. Niacinamide: This ingredient can undergo degradation under certain conditions, such as in the presence of heat, light, or certain pH levels, leading to color changes.

    2. Centella Asiatica Extract: Plant extracts often contain compounds that are sensitive to oxidation or light, which can lead to color changes over time.

    3. Phenonip (a preservative): It could interact with other components in the formula, potentially leading to color changes.

    4. Borage Seed Oil: Oils can oxidize over time, especially if not properly stabilized, leading to rancidity and color changes.

    5. Alpha Arbutin: This is a stability-sensitive ingredient that can degrade under certain conditions, potentially leading to discoloration.

    6. Tocopherol (Vitamin E): While it is an antioxidant, it can itself oxidize over time, especially in the presence of factors like light, air, and heat.

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