Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating Sodium Surfactant

  • Sodium Surfactant

    Posted by theoracle on August 27, 2019 at 6:57 pm

    Accidentally posted this in “Science” this morning, I’m hoping having it in the right category will get some responses…

    I’m trying to formulate a few things with sodium surfactin and there just isn’t much out there on the ingredient. I bought from Formulator Sample Shop and even they don’t seem to know that much about it tbh.
    I’ve made a milky toner and an oleogel cleanser, both have separated on me. The only thing I can think is that I haven’t used high shear (though nothing I’ve read says it needs it specifically). 

    The formula for the milky toner:

    Water 16.30%
    ACV (apple cider vinegar) 15.00%
    Witch Hazel 21.00%
    Glycerin 5.00%
    Sodium Surfactin 0.20%
    Tea Tree 1.00%
    White Willow Bark Extract 5.00%
    Matcha Green Tea and Chamomile Hydrosol 20.00%
    Lime 0.25%
    Orange 0.25%
    Alcohol 16.00%

    The Oleogel Cleanser

    Babassu Oil 31.40%
    Grapeseed Oil 20.00%
    Phytocide Elderberry 5.00%
    Sodium Surfactin 1.00%
    Hazelnut Oil 20.00%
    Glycerin 20.00%
    Tea Tree 1.00%
    Lime 0.25%
    Lemongrass 0.10%
    Green Tea Powder 1.00%
    Orange 0.25%

    Any glaring issues anyone can see? 
    I premixed the sodium surfactin with the glycerin as directed and then very very slowly mixed in the oil phase making sure nothing pooled even a little and both were great for a short amount of time (an hour or less) and then began to separate. The toner still works fine if you shake it as its only a small amount of EOs on top (still not ok for production obviously) but the oleogel completely separated after a day or so. 

    What am I doing wrong?
    Pharma replied 4 years, 8 months ago 2 Members · 1 Reply
  • 1 Reply
  • Pharma

    Member
    August 27, 2019 at 7:25 pm
    And I “accidentally” replied in “Science” too ;) .
    Read there.

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