Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating SLES emulsion was water thin. Any comments on how to make it lotion like viscosity?

  • SLES emulsion was water thin. Any comments on how to make it lotion like viscosity?

    Posted by abdullah on April 23, 2022 at 11:26 am
    This was my first formula with SLES as per advise from @Pharma

    SLES 0.4% active

    Polyglyceryl-10 laurate 0.4%
    GMS 3.2% 
    petrolatum 4%
    Glycerin 4%
    EDTA 0.2%
    Phenoxyethanol 0.6%
    Caprylhydroxamic acid 0.15%
    Water pH 4.6 with citric acid
    SLES and pg10L was added in water phase. Added oil phase to water phase and homogenize. 

    The purpose was to make low price anionic emulsion but avoid soaping that comes with sodium stearoyl lactylate and polymer absence ( xanthan gum doesn’t feel so good and others are expensive).

    The product was stable, no foam,no soaping and good enough skin feel. But it was water thin. 

    I did expect lower viscosity because of polymer absence but not water thin. 

    I then made another batch, one with 1% HEC, one with 1% HPMC. These had soaping and viscosity was also lower than formula with 
    0.6% sodium stearoyl lactylate
    3.4% GMS
    4% petrolatum
    4% glycerin
    0.2% dimethicone
    Citric acid to pH 5.1
    Water

    Question
    Is emulsion with SLS or SLES always water thin without polymer or there was any problem with my method?

    Ichlas replied 1 year, 9 months ago 4 Members · 7 Replies
  • 7 Replies
  • ketchito

    Member
    April 25, 2022 at 1:50 pm

    @Abdullah SLES is a poor emulsifier, but a good detergent (due to it’s short alkyl chain lenght and highly polar head). Plus, you have way higher amount of GMS which tends to form W/O emulsions. 

  • abdullah

    Member
    April 26, 2022 at 4:54 am

    @ketchito i will tag you in another post. Please have a look and let me know what do understand from it. 

  • ShawnL9022

    Member
    April 26, 2022 at 2:02 pm

    Did you try Stearic Acid + Sodium Hydroxide to replace SLES? In this way, you can add a negative charge to your emulsion. 

  • abdullah

    Member
    April 26, 2022 at 2:33 pm

    @ShawnL9022 no i haven’t tried that. 

    What is the lowest pH it which Stearic Acid + Sodium Hydroxide can be stable? 

  • ShawnL9022

    Member
    April 26, 2022 at 2:42 pm

    Abdullah said:

    @ShawnL9022 no i haven’t tried that. 

    What is the lowest pH it which Stearic Acid + Sodium Hydroxide can be stable? 

    What is the pH range you are trying to reach? In a range of pH < 6.0, this combo will stay in acid form. For a specific reason, if you need to add a negative charge to your emailsion.  You can replace GMS with GMSE (Glyceryl Stearate SE), then remove Polyglyceryl-10 laurate. That can help increase viscosity, either. 

  • abdullah

    Member
    April 26, 2022 at 4:07 pm

    Abdullah said:

    @ShawnL9022 no i haven’t tried that. 

    What is the lowest pH it which Stearic Acid + Sodium Hydroxide can be stable? 

    What is the pH range you are trying to reach? In a range of pH < 6.0, this combo will stay in acid form. For a specific reason, if you need to add a negative charge to your emailsion.  You can replace GMS with GMSE (Glyceryl Stearate SE), then remove Polyglyceryl-10 laurate. That can help increase viscosity, either. 

    I work in pH 5 or below

  • Ichlas

    Member
    April 28, 2022 at 2:51 am

    Try to add Cetearyl Alcohol, it would act as the viscosity builder hence create the lotion-like consistency.

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