Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating Silicone Alternatives/Soaping

  • Silicone Alternatives/Soaping

    Posted by MattTheChemist on April 1, 2021 at 2:44 pm

    Has anyone ever found any of the silicone alternatives such as the Cetiol or LexFeel family of materials effective in achieving the anti-soaping properties of silicones? Curious to see if anyone has experience with these. Thank you!

    Graillotion replied 3 years, 1 month ago 6 Members · 9 Replies
  • 9 Replies
  • Pharma

    Member
    April 1, 2021 at 7:17 pm

    I haven’t. Science has a nice explanation why substituting silicones with non-silicones (especially esters, for Easter bunny’s sake!) for anti-soaping is virtually impossible unless large enough amounts of oils are used to kill the emulsifier’s capacity (i.e. breaking the emulsion). Sure, pure hydrocarbons such as Cetiol Ultimate or squalane will do a better job than isoamyl laurate but it’s like trying to replace simethicone (1-2 pills) against flatulence with olive oil. Replacing it with essential oils does work though this is also due to pharmacological actions and not just the anti-soaping effect. In theory, one should give essential oils a try ;) . Other potential substances to try can be ethanol, hydrophobic silica, and ethylene bis stearamide. However, all these won’t feel like silicones and given that cosmetics is more about feel than action…

  • MattTheChemist

    Member
    April 1, 2021 at 10:10 pm

    @Pharma thank you as always! I had a feeling this was the case. Of course, clients not wanting silicones makes the job slightly more challenging. I will test some of those substitutes!

  • abierose

    Member
    April 2, 2021 at 6:20 am

    Has anyone ever found any of the silicone alternatives such as the Cetiol or LexFeel family of materials effective in achieving the anti-soaping properties of silicones? Curious to see if anyone has experience with these. Thank you!

    I’ve used LuxGlide N350 (INCI: Diheptyl Succinate (and) Capryloyl Glycerin/Sebacic Acid Copolymer) quite a bit and find it definitely cuts down the soaping and adds nice siliconey slip. Also NatraSil (INCI: Hydrogenated Ethylhexyl Olivate, Hydrogenated Olive Oil Unsaponifiables) adds a nice feel too. I also really like the feel of Daikon Seed Extract as well (INCI: Raphanus Sativus (Radish) Seed Extract).
    Hope that helps!

  • Pharma

    Member
    April 2, 2021 at 7:18 am

    Ah, LuxGlide N350… that looks like it could work. I’ll add that to my ‘to try list’. Thanks!

  • MarkBroussard

    Member
    April 2, 2021 at 1:29 pm

    @MattTheChemist:

    I’ve had good success using Hydrolyzed Jojoba Esters … Floratech Floraesters K-20W, specifically.  Also, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl TaurateCopolymer

  • MattTheChemist

    Member
    April 2, 2021 at 2:41 pm

    @abierose great information, thank you! the N350 was one I was looking at. 

    @MarkBroussard I have some of the Floraesters on hand so I will give that a go! Thank you!

  • abierose

    Member
    April 2, 2021 at 10:53 pm

    @MattTheChemist and @Pharma - Awesome!! Glad to help! :smiley:

  • EVchem

    Member
    May 4, 2021 at 4:57 pm

    Late to the party but I’ve used 

    Lexgard® Natural MHG MB (Methylheptylglycerin) with decent success at 2% and that was with Olivem 1000 which is notorious for soaping.
  • Graillotion

    Member
    May 5, 2021 at 2:22 am

    Very interesting on the Floratech Floraesters K-20W….as I use it in every formula…and have far less soaping than I deserve.  I had never seen it listed as an anti-soaper…but maybe that is why my formulas that have either no silicone…or my newer formulas which have only small amounts…don’t soap at all. 

    Granted…I stay away from the classic soaping emulsifiers, and stearic acid (for the most part).

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