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Shampoo Formulation Help
Hi,
I’m a new chemist with a very stubborn client who wants an all natural shampoo that’s as foamy as and dove and as moisturizing as some of the store bought brands. This is my current formulation and I’m having issues with the foam formation and thickness are there any suggestions that I can do to help?
Decyl Glucoside 3
Lauryl Glucoside 3
Lamesoft 65 1
Disodium Cocoyl Glutamate 4
CAPB 22
Hydroxyethylcellulose 0.5
Sodium Gouconate 0.2
Argan oil 0.1
Olive oil 0.1
Coconut Oil 0.1
Tocopherol 0.05
Soap Nut extract 0.05
Butterfly Pea Powder 0.05
Essential oils 0.2
Panthenol 1
Citric acid 0.12
Geogard ECT 0.5
Water qs
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This discussion was modified 2 weeks, 6 days ago by
Coscoschemist.
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This discussion was modified 2 weeks, 6 days ago by
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9 Replies
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If those are percentages of each raw material (not total active of each), then you’re using too little surfactant content. Also, switch from HEC to HPMC. I’d also rethink the preservative system you’re using, replace Lamesoft by a water soluble cationic polymer like PQ-10.
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Yes, they are just of the RM not ASM I thought I was within spec but I’ve been tweaking it slightly for a bit so maybe I’ve fallen out. Would the usage for PQ-10 be roughly the same as the lamesoft?
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PQ-10 and Lamesoft work and feel differently. The first works more as a softening agent and the latter, an emollient (lubricant). If I had to choose between them, I’d choose PQ-10 since it deposits more at lower concentrations, and its effect is more percievable.
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why using three vegtables oils?
1) For marketing reason no need to reach such level they may effect( reduce) the foam
2) To have benefits , this level in rinse off will not add anything.-
Yes, unfortunately the client wants these oils in the formulation (specifically stated they wanted these 😔) same with the soapnut and butterfly pea powder. Should I reduce it down by half?
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As start point not bad and even lower.
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My approach to producing an all-natural shampoo is different from most. I saponified coconut oil to produce a foaming and very cleansing shampoo. I have now retired in 2004, but produced and exported my shampoo globally from 2006 until 2024.
And the process was simple. Saponify good-quality coconut oil, and add high-quality essential oils for fragrance.
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What are your clients limitations on surfactants? Glucosides are difficult to thicken and aren’t great with foaming. The easiest option is to look for anionic surfactants that you can thicken with salt or CAPB.
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good points made here already. I’d echo dropping glucosides. You can have a well-performing shampoo that doesn’t rely on sulfates (not sure I’d say ‘all natural’, try looking up other discussions on this site about that), but I’ve seen many customers willing to let go of the product performance/claims once they see the cost difference. That said, you could try specific amino-acid based surfactants like glycinates which should still have some salt thickening response- check out Ajinomoto literature/ example formulations. Make sure your pH is right for whatever aa surfactant you choose- you’d probably have to swap geogard for something else with glycinates, they work best at pH 7+. If you aren’t willing to change pH this paper mentions a sarcosinate/CAPB blend you could try. https://aocs.onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/abs/10.1007/s11743-015-1683-9
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