Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating Shampoo formula causes hair dryness?

  • Shampoo formula causes hair dryness?

    Posted by Abram on November 8, 2021 at 8:05 pm

    Hey everybody,

    I am trying to formulate a shampoo for daily use as follow:
    20% Disodium laureth sulfosuccinate
    8% cocamidopropyl betaine
    2% cocamide DEA
    2% glycerine
    4% polyquaternium-7
    Many users told me that causes some dryness of hair. I do not know the reason. Could you help me?
    Abram replied 2 years, 6 months ago 6 Members · 12 Replies
  • 12 Replies
  • ahealy

    Member
    November 8, 2021 at 8:35 pm

    What is the activity of the disodium laureth sulfosuccinate? Seems a high % 

  • Abdullah

    Member
    November 9, 2021 at 1:33 am

    Reduce betaine and DEA to half. 

    Although i don’t think you shampoo makes the hair dry

  • Abram

    Member
    November 9, 2021 at 3:30 pm

    Abdullah said:

    Reduce betaine and DEA to half. 

    Although i don’t think you shampoo makes the hair dry

    I did this but shampoo lost its viscosity

  • Abram

    Member
    November 9, 2021 at 3:31 pm

    ahealy said:

    What is the activity of the disodium laureth sulfosuccinate? Seems a high % 

    It is a mild surfactant

    How much should I use?
  • Paprik

    Member
    November 9, 2021 at 6:16 pm

    You should follow recommended inputs from supplier.
    We do not know what brand name you are using, therefore what’s the activity or those raw materials. 

    If the shampoo is for oily hair, use higher input, if it’s for daily use, you can use mid point.
    It can be even the polyquot-7. Try to reduce it to 2% and see how it goes. 

  • OldPerry

    Member
    November 9, 2021 at 6:19 pm

    What do your users mean when they say it caused dryness?

    You might try substituting Polyquarternium 10 rather than Polyquat 7.  Also, your level of Polyquat 7 is too high, 1% is max necessary. 

    Also, what is the total % active of surfactant.  More than 15% is very high.

  • Syl

    Member
    November 9, 2021 at 9:05 pm

    If your surfactant percentage is within the normal range. You may want to inquire what shampoo yours is compared to? Are they using a shampoo that contains silicone which may feel more moisturizing? 

  • Abram

    Member
    November 14, 2021 at 7:32 pm

    Paprik said:

    You should follow recommended inputs from supplier.
    We do not know what brand name you are using, therefore what’s the activity or those raw materials. 

    If the shampoo is for oily hair, use higher input, if it’s for daily use, you can use mid point.
    It can be even the polyquot-7. Try to reduce it to 2% and see how it goes. 

    I will try it agin after reducing polyquat 7
    but I am surprized that increasing the moisturizing agent may cause dryness
    thanks for your concern

  • Abram

    Member
    November 14, 2021 at 7:40 pm

    Perry said:

    What do your users mean when they say it caused dryness?

    You might try substituting Polyquarternium 10 rather than Polyquat 7.  Also, your level of Polyquat 7 is too high, 1% is max necessary. 

    Also, what is the total % active of surfactant.  More than 15% is very high.

    Hello sir,
    I am so excited to see your reply
    1. “my users” means people who tried to apply my shampoo on their hair and told me their feedbacks
    2. I find to that shampoo loses its desired viscosity on reducing the percentage of surfactants. How can I deal with that?
    3. I try using disodium laureth sulfosuccinate because it is a mild surfactant, before I used SLES instead.

    Thanks for your sincere reply

  • Abram

    Member
    November 14, 2021 at 7:41 pm

    Syl said:

    If your surfactant percentage is within the normal range. You may want to inquire what shampoo yours is compared to? Are they using a shampoo that contains silicone which may feel more moisturizing? 

    It is a good point sir
    I will check this

    Thanks for reply

  • Paprik

    Member
    November 14, 2021 at 9:19 pm

    Sulfosuccinates do not thicken easily / they are not salt responsive. You may need to use some sort of gum or polymer to thicken your formula. 

    Polyquaternium works great at lower % input. Not always “the more the better” works in cosmetic. If you use too much of a polyquat, the hair will feel terrible. I guess that is the problem with your shampoo. Plus probably high active matter input.

    Also, you shouldn’t use pure silicones in your formula. There is no benefit to it, it will only destabilize your formula and kill the foam. Use some ethoxylated lipids, superfatting agents or similar. 

  • Abram

    Member
    November 15, 2021 at 9:28 am

    Paprik said:

    Sulfosuccinates do not thicken easily / they are not salt responsive. You may need to use some sort of gum or polymer to thicken your formula. 

    Polyquaternium works great at lower % input. Not always “the more the better” works in cosmetic. If you use too much of a polyquat, the hair will feel terrible. I guess that is the problem with your shampoo. Plus probably high active matter input.

    Also, you shouldn’t use pure silicones in your formula. There is no benefit to it, it will only destabilize your formula and kill the foam. Use some ethoxylated lipids, superfatting agents or similar. 

    Wooooooow
    You have given me more than I deserved

    Thanks a lot for these precious tips
    I was really confused from viscosity issue

    Thanks you so much sir

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