Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating Sepimax Zen - tips/tricks

  • Sepimax Zen - tips/tricks

    Posted by MattTheChemist on June 30, 2021 at 1:58 pm

    I will be using Sepimax Zen for the first time. Working on a relatively simple acid exfoliant. 

    I can’t seem to find formulation guidelines for this material. I have reached out to Seppic. 

    My question is - do you add the polymer to the aqueous base before the addition of the acids/solvents, or do you add everything together and then add the polymer at the end? 

    I appreciate any insight from those who have worked with this material! Thank you.  

    chemicalmatt replied 2 years, 10 months ago 6 Members · 8 Replies
  • 8 Replies
  • chemicalmatt

    June 30, 2021 at 8:57 pm

    Matt (another Matt here? uh oh!) - always disperse and hydrate the polymer into water at RT first before adding any other component.

  • Graillotion

    June 30, 2021 at 9:47 pm

    I’m sure you know….but Zen below .5% is a wonderful thing, and above that…kinda becomes giggly and gross. :) 

  • MattTheChemist

    June 30, 2021 at 10:59 pm

    @chemicalmatt haha Hi, Matt! ;-) Thank you for the input! Saves me some wasted time. 

    @Graillotion I do not know that since it is my first time working with the material! But good to know. No one wants giggly and gross! :) I’ll be sure to start at 0.5% and see how things turn out. Thank you!

  • Graillotion

    July 1, 2021 at 12:59 am

    Well…when working with a polymeric like that….just take water…and mix it at several ratios….

    say .35, .5, and .65%….and see the resulting product….and determine which one you like the best.  I think much over .75…you’re looking at a solid…hehehe.

    Skip all the other ingredients….just find the viscosity and feel you want of the Zen.

  • Pattsi

    July 1, 2021 at 9:03 am

    Off topic - maybe I should change my name to Mattsi, increasing the Matt population is global agenda.

  • Pharma

    July 1, 2021 at 9:22 am
    Call me Pharmatt o:)
  • jemolian

    July 1, 2021 at 9:28 am

    It will turn out as a giggly marmalade look at about 1% when using normal ingredients.

    Though you should just try it at 0.5% and 1% to see how much a loss of viscosity it would be due to the acid. 

  • chemicalmatt

    July 1, 2021 at 3:34 pm

    @Pattsi and @Pharma you both are welcome to the Matt Club, glad to have you both. Regarding that giggly effect with acrylate polymers: it may be mitigated somewhat by adding surfactants to the formulation but also limiting use of alkyl esters, fatty alcohols and other factors that associate highly with these materials.

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