Semi-permanent hair Color ( without ammonia or hydrogen peroxide)

Formulating

Semi-permanent hair Color ( without ammonia or hydrogen peroxide)

Posted by bahey on January 28, 2019 at 10:43 am

I applied for recognized formula which is :

Acid black 107 dissolved in benzyl alcohol
then added to mixture of isopropyl alchol and tween 80 instead of ( miranol ! ) plus water …. that’s all

i
got the texture and dye look but ? the color didn’t hold on hair (
didn’t dye the hair ) after washing with water only the hair became
white again !!

do you have an idea ? What is wrong

i am using acid black 107 ( the same name in formula but from supplier import it for different usage “clothes dyes” )

many thanks for helping ?

MarkBroussard replied 5 years ago 7 Members · 20 Replies
20 Replies

bahey

Member
January 29, 2019 at 4:24 am

This is the formula
OldPerry

Member
January 29, 2019 at 2:44 pm

What type of hair are you using?

If the hair is not damaged, it is not going to adhere as well. Try it with bleached damaged hair.
Soexcited

Member
January 31, 2019 at 5:25 pm

If you’re using bleached, human hair the bleaching process may have left the cuticle too open and unable to hold the dye. You could test this by trying to dye a piece of your hair sample with a semi permanent dye that is known to be color fast. If it doesn’t hold that dye either, you know this issue was caused by over processing the hair
Soexcited

Member
January 31, 2019 at 5:57 pm

Wait, since this is an acid dye won’t it need a metal salt?
bahey

Member
February 13, 2019 at 7:51 am

Soexcited said:

Wait, since this is an acid dye won’t it need a metal salt?

You mean that i need to add salts ?
bahey

Member
February 14, 2019 at 6:26 am

Perry said:

What type of hair are you using?

If the hair is not damaged, it is not going to adhere as well. Try it with bleached damaged hair.

I have tried on bleached hair and normail white hair !
i gave it to hairdresser to test it on different hair but he told me that the dye doesn’t remain or adhere to hair anymore,
i am thinking ? is the dye dissolved well in benzyle alcohol or it need more time or heat to dissolve well and become active !

thanks Perry
bahey

Member
March 17, 2019 at 2:18 am

Thanks ?
bahey

Member
March 17, 2019 at 9:01 am

Any help
bahey

Member
March 26, 2019 at 8:59 am

Really i need your help ?
OldPerry

Member
March 26, 2019 at 12:58 pm

Well, I guess the dye you’re using doesn’t work on hair. I recommend you find different dyes.

For example, this product uses

HC BLUE NO. 2, BASIC BLUE 99, HC YELLOW NO. 4, BASIC BROWN 16

I couldn’t find any product that uses Black 107
Gunther

Member
March 27, 2019 at 1:22 am

Perry said:

Well, I guess the dye you’re using doesn’t work on hair. I recommend you find different dyes.

For example, this product uses

HC BLUE NO. 2, BASIC BLUE 99, HC YELLOW NO. 4, BASIC BROWN 16

I couldn’t find any product that uses Black 107

What opens the hair cuticle in that formulation?
Urea?

Blackest Black Semi Permanent Hair Color
Ingredients
WATER, UREA, CETEARYL ALCOHOL, PEG-5 COCAMINE, PEG-29 CASTOR OIL, GLYCOL DISTEARATE, CETEARETH-33, HC BLUE NO. 2, ALCOHOL DENAT., BASIC BLUE 99, HC YELLOW NO. 4, QUATERNIUM-80, PROPYLENE GLYCOL, ETHANOLAMINE, FRAGRANCE, BASIC BROWN 16, POLYQUATERNIUM-22, COCAMIDOPROPYL BETAINE, HEXYL CINNAMAL, LINALOOL
bahey

Member
April 29, 2019 at 7:22 am

Perry said:

Well, I guess the dye you’re using doesn’t work on hair. I recommend you find different dyes.

For example, this product uses

HC BLUE NO. 2, BASIC BLUE 99, HC YELLOW NO. 4, BASIC BROWN 16

I couldn’t find any product that uses Black 107

Thanks perry for your reply
i will test different dyes , but i have found many hair dye products use acid black 107
OldPerry

Member
April 30, 2019 at 1:16 pm

What hair dye products use acid black 107? I couldn’t find any.
Bill_Toge

Member
May 4, 2019 at 7:05 pm

acid dyes generally have very poor washfastness on hair, due to the fact hair carries a negative charge, as does the acid dye, leading to electrostatic repulsion; this is why the vast majority of temporary hairs dyes are basic (i.e. cationic) or neutral
bahey

Member
May 6, 2019 at 7:31 am

Bill_Toge said:

acid dyes generally have very poor washfastness on hair, due to the fact hair carries a negative charge, as does the acid dye, leading to electrostatic repulsion; this is why the vast majority of temporary hairs dyes are basic (i.e. cationic) or neutral

Thanks ? Bill ,
do you suggest using another hair dye ?
bahey

Member
May 6, 2019 at 7:34 am

Perry said:

What hair dye products use acid black 107? I couldn’t find any.

In the attached reference as you see Acid black 107 is the dye used
another product from france ?? use the same dye name ,
so I guessed that it is the dye could be used
bahey

Member
May 28, 2019 at 8:06 am

Still trying……
Lily7

Member
September 9, 2019 at 8:10 pm

i’m having the same problem, the acid dye fixes on hair but last only like 2 washes, more or less! but I see in the market products using the same acid dyes, without any basic or HC dye, and it lasts a lot of washes, at least 1 month of washing! I just can’t understand how they’re doing it, and just can’t believe no one in this forum know how to fix it, how does it really work…

…I think they’re really keeping it secret, you know? lol
Bill_Toge

Member
September 9, 2019 at 10:38 pm

@Lily7 or, more likely, they’re actually using HC / basic / non-anionic dyes and not declaring them on the label
MarkBroussard

Member
September 10, 2019 at 2:15 am

@bahey:

Are you based in Europe? The dyes that can be used in Europe are much more restricted than those that are allowed in the US.

I haven’t worked on one of these projects in a while, but you will get much better results using a Basic Dye … and, if I recall there aren’t many options for basic dyes that are allowed in the EU market.

The dyes allowed in the EU market perform poorly relative to the performance you get out of the semi-permanent dyes allowed in the US.

Check out Pylam Dyes … they have lines of both Basic and Acid dyes that are for semi-permanent applications. Stick with the Basic dyes.