Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating Self Emulsifier Calculations

• # Self Emulsifier Calculations

Posted by on June 19, 2017 at 8:32 pm

Hello fellow Chemists and Formulators. Hope all is well!

I have been searching thru the internet in the hopes to finding some guidance in the matter of calculating self emulsifiers per oil face or oil percentage. I have some knowledge on the HLB System (hydrophilic-lipophilic balance system) But I believe this wouldn’t be helpful sense I am not trying to create an emulsification system.

What I am trying to validate or figure out is the amount of self emulsifier per oil in a formula. Every self emulsifier comes with a recommended usage level, take for example this emulsifier Behentrimonium Methosulfate and Cetearyl Alcohol, its recommend use level is from 1-10%. If I have a basic formula for lets say a leaving conditioner which I am adding these ingredients leaving out the emulsifier:

Formula:

Coco Oil 5g - 2.2%
Sunflower Oil 10g - 4.4%

Water 196g - 86.7%

Glycerin 10g - 4.4%
Fragrance Oil 3g - 1.3%
Preservative Germall Plus 0.8%

* I typically use 5% or 6% of BTMS for the consistency I like.

But if my oil face consist of 6.6% is there a way to calculate how much self emulsifier per oil should I use to properly emulsify the formula? Regardless of the consistency I am looking for (sense we can always add some cetyl alcohol for thickening) is there a calculating process or any other process to determine what percentage of BTMS or any emulsifier to use besides just guessing the amount?

Any feedback, math formula or help would be truly appreciated.

replied 6 years, 8 months ago 2 Members · 2 Replies
• 2 Replies
• ### lotionmaker

Member
June 19, 2017 at 8:59 pm

So according to the above posts you would add up the oils including fragrance oils together and divide by 4.

• ### Jini

Member
June 21, 2017 at 6:55 pm