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Seeking help
Hello everyone, first of all i would like to thank you for your help on my previous questions, it really helped me. I’m new to the cosmetic formulation sector. Right now i’m formulating a hair conditioner but i’m finding problem understanding the differences between all the conditioning agents categories and mode of actions consequently i’m not able to chose the most convenient mixture. I would like to ask if there is any website, article, or something i can read to help me in this matter. Thank you :blush:
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7 Replies
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There’s a very nice book called Cosmetic Formulation: Principles and Practice, you can find it online. Let me know if you have troubles getting it👍
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Attached is chapter 2.4 of the book called Chemistry and Technology of Cosmetics and Toiletries Industry by Williams and Schmitt. You might find it useful.
In summary, most conditioners have similar components:
- cationic emulsifier (one or more)
- additional non-ionic emulsifier for stability
- fatty alcohol
- some sort of emollient - usually a silicone (dimethicone 2-3%)
- additives such as cationic polymers (polyquaternium 7 or 10)
- preservation system
The most common emulsifiers are BTMS, Behentrimonium Chloride and Cetrimonium Chloride. You can also see Stearamidopropyl Dimethylamine (typically better for thin hair) pretty often.
Which one to use depends on hair type and I find Behentrimonium Chloride to be the most conditioning. BTMS comes in different concentrations 25% and 50% being the most common. I once bought BTMS 80 but it has a very high melting point which makes it tricky to work with.I suggest you start with BTMS-25 as it’s easy to work with and depending on desired viscosity you might not even need fatty alcohol (it has it included). It is also easy to find and less expensive than 50.
In terms of polymers, keep in mind that polyquat 10 can vary from supplier to supplier a lot. It can be more or less cationic and vary a lot in viscosity, so maybe start with polyquat 7.
Check supplier’s documentation in terms of processing. Conditioners often don’t like high shear.
D5 works great in conditioners but now it’s restricted in wash-off products for its toxicity for aquatic life, so stick to dimethicone.
Do not overload your conditioner with vegetable oils. Those are added for consumer appeal at negligible amounts (lower than 1%)
Also, you can go as minimalistic as this:
Aqua (Water), Cetearyl Alcohol, Behentrimonium Chloride, Cyamopsis Tetragonoloba (Guar) Gum, Phytic Acid, Phenoxyethanol, Chlorphenesin.
https://theordinary.com/en-gb/behentrimonium-chloride-2-conditioner-100409.html -
ketchito said:There’s a very nice book called Cosmetic Formulation: Principles and Practice, you can find it online. Let me know if you have troubles getting it👍
Thank you very much for the reference i found it!
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ngarayeva001 said:Attached is chapter 2.4 of the book called Chemistry and Technology of Cosmetics and Toiletries Industry by Williams and Schmitt. You might find it useful.
In summary, most conditioners have similar components:
- cationic emulsifier (one or more)
- additional non-ionic emulsifier for stability
- fatty alcohol
- some sort of emollient - usually a silicone (dimethicone 2-3%)
- additives such as cationic polymers (polyquaternium 7 or 10)
- preservation system
The most common emulsifiers are BTMS, Behentrimonium Chloride and Cetrimonium Chloride. You can also see Stearamidopropyl Dimethylamine (typically better for thin hair) pretty often.
Which one to use depends on hair type and I find Behentrimonium Chloride to be the most conditioning. BTMS comes in different concentrations 25% and 50% being the most common. I once bought BTMS 80 but it has a very high melting point which makes it tricky to work with.I suggest you start with BTMS-25 as it’s easy to work with and depending on desired viscosity you might not even need fatty alcohol (it has it included). It is also easy to find and less expensive than 50.
In terms of polymers, keep in mind that polyquat 10 can vary from supplier to supplier a lot. It can be more or less cationic and vary a lot in viscosity, so maybe start with polyquat 7.
Check supplier’s documentation in terms of processing. Conditioners often don’t like high shear.
D5 works great in conditioners but now it’s restricted in wash-off products for its toxicity for aquatic life, so stick to dimethicone.
Do not overload your conditioner with vegetable oils. Those are added for consumer appeal at negligible amounts (lower than 1%)
Also, you can go as minimalistic as this:
Aqua (Water), Cetearyl Alcohol, Behentrimonium Chloride, Cyamopsis Tetragonoloba (Guar) Gum, Phytic Acid, Phenoxyethanol, Chlorphenesin.
https://theordinary.com/en-gb/behentrimonium-chloride-2-conditioner-100409.html
Thank you very much for the references and advises, really helpful!
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ketchito said:There’s a very nice book called Cosmetic Formulation: Principles and Practice, you can find it online. Let me know if you have troubles getting it👍
Is there any pdf of this book? Any other pdf of cosmetic book?
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drjayseesunish said:ketchito said:There’s a very nice book called Cosmetic Formulation: Principles and Practice, you can find it online. Let me know if you have troubles getting it👍
Is there any pdf of this book? Any other pdf of cosmetic book?
i found the pdf free online ill share it here with you
https://www.academia.edu/73270426/Cosmetic_Formulation_Principles_and_Practice?source=swp_share -
Anna_Maria said:drjayseesunish said:ketchito said:There’s a very nice book called Cosmetic Formulation: Principles and Practice, you can find it online. Let me know if you have troubles getting it👍
Is there any pdf of this book? Any other pdf of cosmetic book?
i found the pdf free online ill share it here with you
https://www.academia.edu/73270426/Cosmetic_Formulation_Principles_and_Practice?source=swp_share@Anna Maria thanks a lot for kind help.
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