Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating Scratchy Lipstick

  • Scratchy Lipstick

    Posted by auntiej on August 19, 2017 at 9:54 pm


    I am making lipsticks using a combination of micas and liquid pigments - I’ve had some feedback that the lipstick feels “scratchy”.  I just made a test batch where I dispersed the color with isododecane wondering if that will help.

    Any suggestions!!

    Thank you in advance.  

    Bobzchemist replied 6 years, 9 months ago 2 Members · 3 Replies
  • 3 Replies
  • Bobzchemist

    August 20, 2017 at 8:00 pm

    1)How are you dispersing your color, or is it pre-dispersed? It takes a great deal of shear/energy to disperse dry color finely enough to keep it from being felt on the lips.
    2) Make 2 sticks, one with just your colors and one with just your micas. Which one is more “scratchy”? Mica isn’t usually, but it could be.

  • auntiej

    August 20, 2017 at 11:17 pm

    The lipsticks use a combination of predispersed liquid pigments, micas, lakes (just depends on the color I’m trying to make)

    I dispersed the Red 40 lake and the Red 7 lake in isododeane. I’ve made a few test batches and they all seem to be smooth. 

    That is a good idea - one w/the mica and one w/o. 

    Thanks again!

  • Bobzchemist

    August 21, 2017 at 3:50 am

    If you’re not grinding the lakes fine enough, that could be your problem. Also, most pigment grinds are made with castor oil, or something with equivalent viscosity/yield value, so that the pigment doesn’t settle out or re-agglomerate.

    Are you using a 3-roll mill, a high-shear disperser, or a pigment muller to disperse your lakes?

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