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SCCS’ Opinion on Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate (EHMC)- what to make of it
Hello,
I was shopping for a SPF lip-balm, and found some, but all of them contain EHMC. I’ve looked for safety data on EHMC, and found this (it’s the final paragraph from the SCCS’ “Opinion on Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate (EHMC)”- 25.10.2024):
4. CONCLUSION:
1. In light of the data provided and taking under consideration the concerns related to
potential endocrine disrupting properties of Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate, does the
SCCS consider Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate safe when used as UV-Filter in cosmetic
products up to a maximum concentration of 10%?
Having considered the data provided, and the concerns relating to potential endocrine
disrupting properties of EHMC, the SCCS cannot conclude on the safety of EHMC,
because the information provided is insufficient to exclude genotoxicity.
In addition, the available evidence also shows that EHMC is an endocrine-active
substance due to clear demonstration of estrogenic activity and weak anti-androgenic
activity both in vitro and in vivo.
2. Alternatively, what is according to the SCCS the maximum concentration considered
safe for use of Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate in cosmetic products?
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So, they “cannot conclude” on its overall safety, nor on the concentration that might be safe.
Then why there are products on the (European) market containing EHMC if it might not be safe?
Can you explain, please, how these “Opinion”s work? Being “opinions” and not laws, are they ignored until proven otherwise?
Thank you.
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4 Replies
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The SCCS did conclude insufficient evidence to counter genotoxicity, therefrore laws prohibiting it are soon to follow. That’s the “slow walk” of regulators everywhere - except China where they seem to move fast. Those SPF products in the E.U. are legacy formulations, no doubt. They will be given a window to reformulate when the time comes. See: cyclopentasiloxane dismissal schedule per ECHA.
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Thank you, @chemicalmatt, it’s clear now.
May I ask you here something unrelated, please?
I’ve read all your answers regarding stearamidopropyl dimethylamine (I’ve got some and I want to play with it), and I’m not sure when/which phase to add the neutralisation agent.
In Evonik’s sample formulations they use citric acid added in the water phase, but in one of your answers you said that the best next-thing after glutamic acid would be lactic acid. If I’m not wrong, lactic acid is not heat-stable, so would it work if added in the cool-down, please? Or do I have to go with citric acid?
Thank you.
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I’ve used lactic acid for most of these emulsions, no problem with heating at 80C, which is where it needs to be - and always in the water phase. This way you form the quaternary salt at high temperature to completion; reaction chemistry going on there. Never use citric acid as it produces the lowest viscosity response. Glutamic works great but is quite expensive compared to lactic.
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Thank you, indeed.
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