Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating Roll-on for folliculitis (HEC separation)

  • Roll-on for folliculitis (HEC separation)

    Posted by VinTec on May 23, 2023 at 2:01 pm


    I’m developing a roll-on for folliculitis (mainly for the buttocks). Basically, it is a aqueous system with hydroxyethylcellulose with some AHAs/BHAs to help with the exfoliation. I’m using this product from Topicals as a benchmarking/inspiration: https://mytopicals.com/products/high-roller

    However, it seems like something is separating from the rest of the formulation.

    There’s this big ‘chunk’ that is separeted from the rest of the formulation. I assume it is the hydroxyethylcellulose, since this ‘chunk’ is gelled (it looks like a ball, lol). I’m really confused, cause from what I know, hydroxyethylcellulose it’s a good option to use in systems that are ‘challenging’ and requires low pH. I really don’t know what could be causing it. Does anyone has any idea? I’ll share the formulation down below:

    1. Water - q.s.p 100%

    2. Glycerin - 2,00%

    2. Hydroxyethylcellulose - 1,50%

    3. Salicylic Acid - 0,50%

    3. Propylene Glycol - 4,00%

    3. Polysorbate 20 - 2,00%

    4. Centella Asiatica Extract - 0,10%

    4. Green Tea Extract - 0,10%

    4. Ajidew ZN 100 (Zinc PCA) - 0,30%

    4. Glycolic Acid - 2,00%

    4. Lactic Acid - 2,00%

    5. PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil - 3,00%

    5. Microcare PHG (Caprylyl Glycol and Phenoxyethanol) - 1,00%

    Thank you in advance!

    Kind regards 🙂

    evchem2 replied 9 months ago 3 Members · 6 Replies
  • 6 Replies
  • PhilGeis

    May 23, 2023 at 3:50 pm

    Your not in US?

    Think your preservative system might need a little help for fungi and Gram positive bugs.

    • VinTec

      May 26, 2023 at 6:43 am

      Hey Phil! No, I’m not in the US, I’m from Latam.

      Here in the company that I work in we usually use this preservative blend in almost every system that we formulate and never had any issues with microbial growth/contamination in general.

      • PhilGeis

        May 29, 2023 at 1:42 am

        Ever tested product after condumer use? What is your package?

  • evchem2

    May 25, 2023 at 3:56 am

    what’s your final pH? Is your HEC coated?

    Ex Natrosol (Ashland’s HEC) recommends formulation pH between 4-10. Do you know the pH of the benchmark?

    Why add the solubilizers?

    • VinTec

      May 26, 2023 at 6:49 am

      Hi there!

      The final pH is around 4.

      The Hydorxyethycellulose isn’t coated. We’re using Cellosize from Dow.

      Unfortunately, I don’t know the pH of the benchmark (but I assume it’s acidic - around 3.5 - 5.0).

      We added the solubilizers to facilitate the salycilic acid incorporation.

  • evchem2

    May 30, 2023 at 1:50 pm

    I assume the order you wrote is order of addition, are you heating at all and how long do you mix before adding next ingredients? Does this system look uniform initially and you see this separation over some time (how fast) and at room temperature or elevated?

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