Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating Retinol sourcing: Buy < 1kg quantities?

  • Retinol sourcing: Buy < 1kg quantities?

    Posted by Zink on April 26, 2015 at 12:28 am

    Retinol ain’t cheap, I’ve found it for $1500/kg at 50% concentration in polysorbate-20 from a US supplier. Retinol palmitate and acetate is more readily available, but inferior to Retinol with a lower effect/sideeffect ratio from my analysis.

    Anyone know ways to get less than a kg e.g. 500g for a pilot batch or two?

    Zink replied 9 years, 1 month ago 3 Members · 9 Replies
  • 9 Replies
  • MichelleReece

    Member
    April 26, 2015 at 1:41 am

    Would makingcosmetics.com’s Vitamin A Microcaps suffice? It’s $564 for 33.6 oz.

  • Zink

    Member
    April 26, 2015 at 2:02 am

    Possibly, I’m not sure it’s better or worse than using regular retinol, but it’s quite expensive: if using the IU value they give at 17000IU per gram, then it’s 5% concentrated. 33.6 oz would contain 48.5 grams Retinol. If using their activity measure of 1% retinol, then we’re down to 10 grams!

    1 oz of product with 0.5% retinol would require 0.15 gram retinol, 48.5 gram would be enough for 323 units so the cost of the retinol alone would be $1.7/unit. If going by their activity measure then it’s $8.5/unit and that gets prohibitively expensive!

    Wheres buying 1 kg retinol in polysorbate-20 for $1500 would give you a per unit cost of $0.45.
  • MichelleReece

    Member
    April 26, 2015 at 3:00 am

    Are you planning to encapsulate your retinol formula later?

  • Zink

    Member
    April 27, 2015 at 7:45 pm

    Not originally, figure It’s not necessary for my formulation. 

    Just heard back from Makingcosmetics btw, they say that 5% is correct, not 1% and they’ve updated their listing :)
  • MichelleReece

    Member
    April 28, 2015 at 5:33 am

    Is makingcosmetics.com’s formula cost-effective for you now? :)

    Typically, retinol is unstable and doesn’t tolerate heat very well, so you may want to think about encapsulating it. Adding chelators would also help, as long as they don’t conflict with the other parts of your formula.

  • Zink

    Member
    April 29, 2015 at 7:59 pm

    Well, it is a little suspicious that the MSDS still says 1%. Long term stability is not currently an important goal.

  • MarkBroussard

    Member
    May 11, 2015 at 9:59 pm

    @Zink

    Have you considered Retinol Liposomes … you can purchase at FormulatorSampleShop in as little as 2oz.  Or, contact Ross Organics, they can provide you samples of BASF Retinol … it comes in various formats.

  • Zink

    Member
    May 12, 2015 at 1:01 am

    Thanks @MarkBroussard

    I’l ask FormulatorSampleShop about the retinol concentration of their liposome product, a little disconcerting that they don’t state it and there’s no data sheet to be found.
    Right now trying to find something bridging the sample to 1 kg stage, seems there aren’t any great options.
  • Zink

    Member
    May 13, 2015 at 2:09 am

    FormulatorSampleShop said it’s 1% retinol, making it cost prohibitive. 

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