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Replacement for c12-c15 alkyl benzoate, cyclopentasiloxane, grapeseed oil?
Hello! I’m working on updating a cream formula, the oil phase includes these 3 ingredients (among others):
Alkyl benzoate @ 6%Cyclopentasiloxane @ 2%Grapeseed oil @ 0.3%I’d like to know if there is something that can be used that would replace those 3, both functionally and aesthetically. I’m a bit new to this so apologies if this is a dumb question.Thank you. -
13 Replies
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The only dumb question is generally the one not asked!
These are nice ingredients. What are you trying to achieve in making the change? -
You can use Dicaprylyl Carbonate instead of C12-C15 alkyl benzoate. Dicaprylyl Carbonate is also sold as a replacement for Cyclopentasiloxane. It is a nice product, but it costs twice as much as traditional esters.
Dicaprylyl Carbonate is sold as Cetiol CC by BASF and as Lonzest DC by Lonza.
Grapeseed oil can be replaced with apricot or sweet almond oil.
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Mark: I’m trying to streamline the formula a bit; it currently has 25 ingredients.
Ruben: Would something like IPP or IPM work as well? I’m also thinking of just omitting the grapeseed oil since it’s such a minuscule amount.
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I think you could use good ol’ IPP or IPM. I don’t know about the skin feel, though.
You want to stay away from grapeseed oil because it is very unsaturated and therefore gets rancid quickly. -
Floramac 10 (Ethyl Macadamiate) would be great here - it’s silky, dry feeling and gives a similar skin feel to cyclomethicone and has slip/spreadability of IPM/IPP.
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Floramac 10 is an interesting looking ingredient! What are your thoughts on using it as a substitute for Alkyl Benzoate? Do you have information regarding its solubility in aqueous systems, specifically in a formula similar to the one in the link below:
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Thank you everybody for your help. I ended up omitting the grapeseed oil, reducing the alkyl benzoate to 4%, and keeping the cyclopentasiloxane at 2%. The final product looks a lot better, just a bit too greasy for my tastes, so I’m working on that now.
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How big is your oil phase?
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26.2%. I just tried adding 0.5% beeswax (so, 26.7% now) which doesn’t seem to help matters but I’ll know for sure when the cream cooled down a bit more.
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26% oils will make it greasy, especially if you use heavy oils. Beeswax will make your lotion draggy.
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Yes I agree about the beeswax which will also make your lotion feel “heavy” and very occlusive on the skin.
There’s a lot you can do to reduce greasiness, for example, you can add dry flo and replace the oils/butters with dry feeling esters such as dicaprylyl carbonate, dodecane and increase the level of cyclomethicone.It would really help to have your formula in full in % so we can advise properly. If you do not wish to publicly post it here, feel free to PM it to me.(Sorry Mark I’m not sure about floramac 10’s solubility in aqueous systems such as the formula in your post). -
I just started using Floramac 20-W Jojoba Esters … it gives an excellent sensorial and is water soluble. And, is a multifunctional that minimizes pores and enhances moisturization.
Thanks for the tip MakingSkincare!
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