Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating Skin Problem with a face wash formula

  • Problem with a face wash formula

    Posted by Chrysanthemum on December 10, 2019 at 3:26 am

    My face wash cream got a problem a couple of months after it was made. There were some white particles appearing in it. I checked the pH and it changed insignificantly. I’m here to ask if anyone has any ideas about the reasons and solutions for this problem.

    Here is my formula:
    Aqua: qs
    Etidronic acid: 0,12%
    Sodium cocoyl isethionate: 6,0%
    Cocoamidopropyl betaine: 12,0%
    Decyl glucoside: 5,0%
    Dicaprylyl ether and Lauryl alcohol (Cetiol LDO): 0,5%
    Glycol distearate, Sodium laureth sulfate and Cocamide MEA (Euperlan KE 4616): 5,0%
    Glycol distearate (Euperlan PK 771 IS): 2,5%
    Acrylates/Beheneth-25 Methacrylate Copolymer (Tinovis GTC UP): 3,0%
    Methylisothiazolinone and Methylchloroisothiazolinone: 0,00075%
    Red onion extract: 1,0%
    Arctium majus root extract: 1,0%
    Aloe vera extract: 0,5%
    Fragrance: qs
    NaOH: qs

    I found out that the rheology modifier Tinovis GTC UP is incompatible with cationic surfactants while Cocoamidopropyl betaine has cationic character with the quaternary ammonium cation but I’m not sure if this interaction is the cause. So I’m so glad to hearing from you guys. Thanks in advance.

    Chrysanthemum replied 4 years, 4 months ago 4 Members · 5 Replies
  • 5 Replies
  • ngarayeva001

    December 10, 2019 at 1:26 pm

    Although it could be many things, my first suspect would be SCI, because you use 6% and this surfactant is acting off sometimes in liquid products (it recrystallizes and you mentioned white particles so could be it). As far as I am aware it’s usually added at a low % (like 2-3% max).

  • Chrysanthemum

    December 11, 2019 at 1:30 am

    @ngarayeva001 thanks for your comment. If the white particles were SCI crystals then they would be re-soluble in hot water, right? But when I dispersed the face wash cream with white particles in hot water, they were still there.

  • Gunther

    December 11, 2019 at 3:43 pm

    Is cocamidopropyl betaine cationic? Ain’t it amphoteric?

  • ozgirl

    December 11, 2019 at 9:46 pm
    It is also possible that the white particles are glycol distearate from your pearliser. What type of packaging are you storing your product in? Is it possible that you are getting some evaporation and the pearlescent is drying out on the edges on the container an falling into the product?
    Do you have a photo?
  • Chrysanthemum

    December 12, 2019 at 5:03 am

    @ozgirl I’m storing it in a LLDPE tube with PP cap. Here are some photos:

    I think maybe you’re right because there were many white particles in the foil seals of tubes.

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