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Tagged: emulsion, humectant, natural ingredients, pomade
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Pomade Humectant Proportions
Posted by jacksons on February 11, 2021 at 1:06 amHi all, first post on here.
I’m working on an emulsion formula for a pomade with medium high hold and am only a few weeks into research. Below is the formula I’m working with; I am wondering how to add veg glycerin and propylene glycol. From what I understand, they are both humectants and often used in tandem. How would I go about adding them to my formula?-Carnauba Wax: 17%
-Avocado oil: 2%
-Jojoba oil: 2%
-Shea butter: 5%
-Kaolin Clay: 3%
-Bentonite Clay: 1%
-PEG 40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil: 5%
-Water: 63.5%
-Fragrance: 1.5%Thank you,
JacksonMicroformulation replied 3 years, 10 months ago 5 Members · 8 Replies -
8 Replies
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Hi, is it pomade for hair? I’m little bit lost.
However, .. I would first worry about adding antioxidant and preservative. I don’t see any emulsifier?
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Paprik said:Hi, is it pomade for hair? I’m little bit lost.
However, .. I would first worry about adding antioxidant and preservative. I don’t see any emulsifier?
Yes, hair pomade. I haven’t added a preservative as I am currently making 100g batches to test formulas, and am still researching the best preservatives to maintain a natural (organic if possible) ingredient list. From the research I’ve done, the shea butter can function as an emulsifier.
I’ve swapped 6% of the water content for 3% PG and 3% VG, and opted for 4% kaolin clay, 0% bentonite clay. With these changes, the formula comes out quite good; high all day hold, great creamy texture comparable to a typical clay-pomade.Cheers,
Jackson -
jacksons said:Paprik said:Hi, is it pomade for hair? I’m little bit lost.
However, .. I would first worry about adding antioxidant and preservative. I don’t see any emulsifier?
Yes, hair pomade. I haven’t added a preservative as I am currently making 100g batches to test formulas, and am still researching the best preservatives to maintain a natural (organic if possible) ingredient list. From the research I’ve done, the shea butter can function as an emulsifier.
I’ve swapped 6% of the water content for 3% PG and 3% VG, and opted for 4% kaolin clay, 0% bentonite clay. With these changes, the formula comes out quite good; high all day hold, great creamy texture comparable to a typical clay-pomade.Cheers,
JacksonShea butter is not an emulsifier. Your product is likely being held together by the wax and Hydrogenated Castor Oil, but I would be surprised if it remained stable over time.
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Weirdly, the bentonite and PEG-40 HCO might just hold this together for a few weeks. Good ‘ol bentonite! Colloid workhorse. Back to @Paprik statement: a preservative is highly advised and lots of it with kaolin involved.
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jacksons said:Paprik said:Hi, is it pomade for hair? I’m little bit lost.
However, .. I would first worry about adding antioxidant and preservative. I don’t see any emulsifier?
Yes, hair pomade. I haven’t added a preservative as I am currently making 100g batches to test formulas, and am still researching the best preservatives to maintain a natural (organic if possible) ingredient list. From the research I’ve done, the shea butter can function as an emulsifier.
I’ve swapped 6% of the water content for 3% PG and 3% VG, and opted for 4% kaolin clay, 0% bentonite clay. With these changes, the formula comes out quite good; high all day hold, great creamy texture comparable to a typical clay-pomade.Cheers,
JacksonYour PEG-40 HCO eliminates this Formula for the Organic standards as well as most Third Party Natural Standards. This is why the word “natural” is of little use in R&D, no defined standard.In summary, it isn’t “Organic” (a defined standard) nor is it “natural.” -
I appreciate the input and advice. I am learning alot; thank you.
Would 0.5% preservative suffice, or is that dependent on the preservative in question?
Back to the original question: how do I determine what ratio PG:VG to add? Does anyone have any example percentages to use in this application?
Lastly, in response to @Microformulation , I’ve sourced USDA certified organic PEG40 Hydrog Castor Oil, wouldn’t that mean that it is an organic component of my formula?
Again, thank you all for the help.
Jackson -
Regarding the preservative, we really can’t really tell.
Kaolin is considered a high risk ingredient, so very robust preservative system is a must. Especially if the product would be in a high risk packaging - open neck jar, where customers will dip their fingers into.
Therefor I would suggest also chelating agent to support the preservative.
PET (preservative efficacy testing) would need to be conducted to make sure it will be effective for the products’ shelf life. -
PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil is produced by reacting Hydrogenated Castor oil with ethylene oxide. It is highly unlikely there is a bonafide USDA NOP Organic Certified version, but “perhaps” I am wrong. What is your source of the raw material?
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