Pomade Humectant Proportions

Tagged: emulsion, humectant, natural ingredients, pomade

Formulating

Pomade Humectant Proportions

Posted by jacksons on February 11, 2021 at 1:06 am

Hi all, first post on here.
I’m working on an emulsion formula for a pomade with medium high hold and am only a few weeks into research. Below is the formula I’m working with; I am wondering how to add veg glycerin and propylene glycol. From what I understand, they are both humectants and often used in tandem. How would I go about adding them to my formula?

-Carnauba Wax: 17%
-Avocado oil: 2%
-Jojoba oil: 2%
-Shea butter: 5%
-Kaolin Clay: 3%
-Bentonite Clay: 1%
-PEG 40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil: 5%
-Water: 63.5%
-Fragrance: 1.5%

Thank you,
Jackson

Microformulation replied 3 years, 9 months ago 5 Members · 8 Replies
8 Replies

Paprik

Member
February 11, 2021 at 8:25 pm

Hi, is it pomade for hair? I’m little bit lost.

However, .. I would first worry about adding antioxidant and preservative. I don’t see any emulsifier?
jacksons

Member
February 18, 2021 at 10:03 pm

Paprik said:

Hi, is it pomade for hair? I’m little bit lost.

However, .. I would first worry about adding antioxidant and preservative. I don’t see any emulsifier?

Yes, hair pomade. I haven’t added a preservative as I am currently making 100g batches to test formulas, and am still researching the best preservatives to maintain a natural (organic if possible) ingredient list. From the research I’ve done, the shea butter can function as an emulsifier.
I’ve swapped 6% of the water content for 3% PG and 3% VG, and opted for 4% kaolin clay, 0% bentonite clay. With these changes, the formula comes out quite good; high all day hold, great creamy texture comparable to a typical clay-pomade.

Cheers,
Jackson
natzam44

Member
February 19, 2021 at 2:32 am

jacksons said:

Paprik said:

Hi, is it pomade for hair? I’m little bit lost.

However, .. I would first worry about adding antioxidant and preservative. I don’t see any emulsifier?

Yes, hair pomade. I haven’t added a preservative as I am currently making 100g batches to test formulas, and am still researching the best preservatives to maintain a natural (organic if possible) ingredient list. From the research I’ve done, the shea butter can function as an emulsifier.
I’ve swapped 6% of the water content for 3% PG and 3% VG, and opted for 4% kaolin clay, 0% bentonite clay. With these changes, the formula comes out quite good; high all day hold, great creamy texture comparable to a typical clay-pomade.

Cheers,
Jackson

Shea butter is not an emulsifier. Your product is likely being held together by the wax and Hydrogenated Castor Oil, but I would be surprised if it remained stable over time.
chemicalmatt

Member
February 19, 2021 at 8:12 pm

Weirdly, the bentonite and PEG-40 HCO might just hold this together for a few weeks. Good ‘ol bentonite! Colloid workhorse. Back to @Paprik statement: a preservative is highly advised and lots of it with kaolin involved.
Microformulation

Member
February 19, 2021 at 11:41 pm

jacksons said:

Paprik said:

Hi, is it pomade for hair? I’m little bit lost.

However, .. I would first worry about adding antioxidant and preservative. I don’t see any emulsifier?

Yes, hair pomade. I haven’t added a preservative as I am currently making 100g batches to test formulas, and am still researching the best preservatives to maintain a natural (organic if possible) ingredient list. From the research I’ve done, the shea butter can function as an emulsifier.
I’ve swapped 6% of the water content for 3% PG and 3% VG, and opted for 4% kaolin clay, 0% bentonite clay. With these changes, the formula comes out quite good; high all day hold, great creamy texture comparable to a typical clay-pomade.

Cheers,
Jackson

Your PEG-40 HCO eliminates this Formula for the Organic standards as well as most Third Party Natural Standards. This is why the word “natural” is of little use in R&D, no defined standard.

In summary, it isn’t “Organic” (a defined standard) nor is it “natural.”
jacksons

Member
February 21, 2021 at 9:58 pm

I appreciate the input and advice. I am learning alot; thank you.

Would 0.5% preservative suffice, or is that dependent on the preservative in question?

Back to the original question: how do I determine what ratio PG:VG to add? Does anyone have any example percentages to use in this application?

Lastly, in response to @Microformulation , I’ve sourced USDA certified organic PEG40 Hydrog Castor Oil, wouldn’t that mean that it is an organic component of my formula?

Again, thank you all for the help.
Jackson
Paprik

Member
February 22, 2021 at 12:11 am

Regarding the preservative, we really can’t really tell.
Kaolin is considered a high risk ingredient, so very robust preservative system is a must. Especially if the product would be in a high risk packaging - open neck jar, where customers will dip their fingers into.
Therefor I would suggest also chelating agent to support the preservative.
PET (preservative efficacy testing) would need to be conducted to make sure it will be effective for the products’ shelf life.
Microformulation

Member
February 22, 2021 at 12:16 am

PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil is produced by reacting Hydrogenated Castor oil with ethylene oxide. It is highly unlikely there is a bonafide USDA NOP Organic Certified version, but “perhaps” I am wrong. What is your source of the raw material?