Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating pH strips and natural preservative system

  • pH strips and natural preservative system

    Posted by Kasturi on July 18, 2017 at 1:44 pm

    Hello..I have made a lotion with the ingredients
    listed below:

    1)      Cold pressed vegetable oil mix – 15.5%

    2)      Stearic acid         - 6.5%

    3)      T.E.A.    -              1%

    4)      Glycerin               - 5%

    5)      Aloe vera juice  - 10%

    6)      Sodium benzoate            - 0.35%

    7)      Potassium sorbate          - 0.35%

    8)      BHT                                        - 0.5%

    9)      Benzyl alcohol                   - 0.2%

    10)   Essential oils                       - 1%

    11)   Deioninsed water            - 61%

    I took below 3 samples (10% solution samples) of this lotion for pH testing:

    1) The original formula

    2) The original formula + 10 drops of citric acid solution (40%)

    3) The original formula + 30 drops of citric acid solution (40%) - At this point I could see the lotion separating into small globules.

    I was using pH strips of Merck and they seemed to indicate
    that all 3 samples I took are quite high pH, nearly 7. 

    My questions:

    A) Are pH strips accurate?

    B) I understand that my preservative mix – sodium benzoate,
    potassium sorbate and benzyl alcohol – needs a low pH (~5) to be active against
    microbes. How do I reduce the pH of my lotion without causing
    it to separate? Will increasing the quantity of stearic acid + TEA help?

    C) Will the preservatives in this lotion not work
    at all, or can I put some shelf life on it – even if a short one
    like 2-4 months?

    DRBOB@VERDIENT.BIZ replied 6 years, 9 months ago 5 Members · 8 Replies
  • 8 Replies
  • David

    Member
    July 18, 2017 at 6:07 pm

    A) no
    B) no - TEA is a base
    C) no the preservatives won’t work but a high pH could. (>8)

  • belassi

    Member
    July 18, 2017 at 6:39 pm

    There are no emulsifiers in this formula, I don’t see how it could possibly work.

  • Bobzchemist

    Member
    July 18, 2017 at 9:59 pm

    1) TEA Stearate, made from reacting TEA with Stearic Acid, is an emulsifier, (not a very good one) but it only forms/reacts at temperatures above 70-75C. Are you are processing at that temperature? How have you determined how much TEA to use?
    2) TEA Stearate is a soap, just like sodium, magnesium and potassium stearates are soaps. They are formed through an acid-base reaction. The reaction reverses/falls apart at pH’s below about 8. There is no way around this.
    3) It is not chemically possible for your lotion to exist in a stable form below pH 7. Therefore, your preservative mix – sodium benzoate, potassium sorbate, and benzyl alcohol - is completely unsuitable for your product. You will either have to use a different preservative mix, or a different emulsifier. Sorry, but there’s no other way to fix this.

  • DRBOB@VERDIENT.BIZ

    Member
    July 18, 2017 at 10:18 pm
    1. The stochiometry for TEA STEARATE is way off and you need 3.25 percent TEA to use TS as a emulsifier with 6.5 stearic.Your preservative system will not work using TS suggest new formula using polymeric emulsifier as a start.Also ending up with about 10 percent soap as TS is way too high for skin.
  • belassi

    Member
    July 18, 2017 at 10:52 pm

    ^^^ Both the above. Use better technology as DrBob suggested.

  • Kasturi

    Member
    July 19, 2017 at 8:07 am

    Thank you very much for your comments @Belassi @Bobzchemist @DRBOB@VERDIENT.BIZ @David
    I can’t understand though how this lotion was working..I’ve been using it for few months now, though consumed it within 3-4 weeks of making.

    1) Can you please suggest a suitable emulsifier keeping the rest of the formula constant? Will help to get a few options as availability may become an issue (I’m based in Mumbai, India).
    2) And the recommended dosage for each? Let me mention here that I am trying to create a body lotion that flows, not a heavy cream.
    3) One last question: If pH of TEA stearate emulsions is so high, how was it traditionally used for leave-on creams? Does applying a pH of 8+ on skin regularly not cause skin damage?

    ~Thanks!

  • Kasturi

    Member
    July 19, 2017 at 12:07 pm

    @Bobzchemist Yes, I am mixing at 70 degrees C. I do not want a high pH formulation as I want to make a product suitable for kids and people with sensitive skin. So I’m guessing a pH of 5.5 to 6 would be ideal? 

  • DRBOB@VERDIENT.BIZ

    Member
    July 19, 2017 at 3:21 pm

    Can you get Ultrez 10 and xanthan gum/If so take out stearic acid and use 1/0.3 ratio of U-10/XG neutralizing using  1;1wt/wt ratio of TEA to Ultrez to Ph 5,5-6 to get lotion consistency you want.You can then use the formula as is including preservative system.Heat both water and oil phases to 70-75C and add oil to water.

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