Peptides and INCI regulatory
@Perry the recent INCI webinar was fantastic. Thank you for that!
Something recently came under my radar and I wanted to get your thoughts. I came across a “peptide” brand, and I noticed that quite a few of their products don’t list peptide INCI’s in the decks. See below:
Aspartic Acid, Arginine, Glutamic Acid, Glutamine, Glycine, Lysine, Methionine, Proline, Valine, Distilled Water, Propylene Glycol, Xanthan, Iodopropynyl Butylcarbamate, and Diazolidinyl Urea
Just free amino acids. A rep for them told me - “We don’t use the peptide name (INCI) because we want to prevent theft from China and our peptides are proprietary, so we just list out the amino acids in the peptide sequence”
I immediately sensed some bullshit. First of all, isn’t it true that the FDA rarely grants proprietary/trade secret status to cosmetics/cosmetic ingredients? Would the INCI regulators let a brand only list the amino acids in the peptide sequence, and not the complete INCI declaration? To me this sounds like they are not playing within the legal framework the rest of us play in. I could be wrong, but something just doesn’t feel right.
Thanks for any insight!