Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating Advanced Questions Penetration enhancer for L-Ascorbic acid that doubles as OIW emulsifier compatible with pH 3?

  • Penetration enhancer for L-Ascorbic acid that doubles as OIW emulsifier compatible with pH 3?

    Posted by Zink on August 9, 2016 at 4:36 am

    I’ve seen one study where 1% Polysorbate-20 improves penetration in-vitro 3x fold at what I assume is neutral pH in “Penetration Enhancing Effect of Polysorbate 20 and
    80 on the In Vitro Percutaneous Absorption of L-Ascorbic
    Acid “.

    Seems like a sensible choice for a serum type formula with a a small 1-3% oil phase, it could emulsify Tocopherol and at the same time potentially improve penetration, or perhaps penetration at pH 3 is strong as is?

    Another route could be to find a pH stable gelling agent with some emulsification capability, or explore other emulsifier such as Laureth-23. Thoughts? 

    BartJ replied 8 years, 2 months ago 2 Members · 1 Reply
  • 1 Reply
  • BartJ

    Member
    August 26, 2016 at 9:44 pm

    Your surfactant level has to be below CMC to act as a penetration enhancer. Agree?

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