Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating Peeling gel without any abrasive agents

  • Peeling gel without any abrasive agents

    Posted by hway on June 7, 2022 at 9:37 pm

    I’ve found a really interesting product.
    Some dead skin cell-like fibers come out when rubbing this product below on the skin. But based on the ingredient list, They’ve not used any cellulose, Cation polymer, etc for a fiber effect. I tried to make fibers by adjusting the ratio of extracts, TEA, and carbomer, but failed. Do you have any idea about this?

    *Its pH is 4-5.


    https://neolumo.com/shop/purifying-gel-peel/

    Ingredients

    Aqua, Propylene Glycol, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Anthemis Nobilis (Chamomile) Flower Extract, Triethanolamine, Carbomer, Phenoxyethanol, Gingo Biloba Leaf Extract, Coix Lacryma-Jobi (Job’s Tears) Seed Oil, Fragrance, Borago Officinalis (Borage) Seed Oil, Dehydroacetic Acid, Oenothera Biennis ( Evening Primrose) Oil, Vitis Vinifera (Grape) Seed Oil, Lavandula Angustifolia (Lavender) Oil, Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf Oil, Polysorbate 20, Ethylhexylglycerin, Ascorbic acid(VC), Limonene, Linalool.

    Rabia replied 1 year, 11 months ago 4 Members · 7 Replies
  • 7 Replies
  • evchem2

    Member
    June 9, 2022 at 12:32 pm

    It’s likely the carbomer, if the pH is 4-5 they aren’t neutralizing it fully and that may be pilling and giving the appearance of skin flaking off. How much carbomer were you using and what grade, and were you staying in the same pH range?

  • hway

    Member
    June 9, 2022 at 12:39 pm

    evchem2 said:

    It’s likely the carbomer, if the pH is 4-5 they aren’t neutralizing it fully and that may be pilling and giving the appearance of skin flaking off. How much carbomer were you using and what grade, and were you staying in the same pH range?

    It was carbopol 980. And I used 980 from 1% to 2 % with pH 5 to 8 variations. I’ll try again with pH 4-5 range. Thanks very much! Do you have any ideas with carbomer %?

  • evchem2

    Member
    June 15, 2022 at 1:37 pm

    I would say try again at 1% at the indicated pH range.  It’s also possible they could have gone much higher, say 3-4% carbomer.
    What’s your order of addition? They do have TEA listed higher than carbomer, so maybe they are neutralizing and then breaking the carbomer/ reducing pH using the aloe (possibly some of the vitamin C or DHA too) which contains electrolytes that most grades of carbomer (especially 980) will be sensitive to.

    Other links of interest
    https://dewolfchem.com/formulations/peeling-gel-190111k/
    https://patents.google.com/patent/WO2015018134A1/en

  • ketchito

    Member
    June 15, 2022 at 2:39 pm

    @hway What’s the pH of the commercial product?

  • hway

    Member
    June 19, 2022 at 8:44 am

    evchem2 said:

    I would say try again at 1% at the indicated pH range.  It’s also possible they could have gone much higher, say 3-4% carbomer.
    What’s your order of addition? They do have TEA listed higher than carbomer, so maybe they are neutralizing and then breaking the carbomer/ reducing pH using the aloe (possibly some of the vitamin C or DHA too) which contains electrolytes that most grades of carbomer (especially 980) will be sensitive to.

    Other links of interest
    https://dewolfchem.com/formulations/peeling-gel-190111k/
    https://patents.google.com/patent/WO2015018134A1/en

    I just saw this! I tried 0.9 % of carbomer. Because I thought they must have twisted the order of the list based on their pH. I’ve done both ways(1. Aloe->Neautralizing 2. Neutralizing->Aloe.) with different TEA/Aloe %. cuz I also thought of electrolytes of Aloe.
    I haven’t seen any peeling effect so far.

    If Vit C dropped the pH, their order could be right! I’ll try Vitamin C/DHA/high % of Carbomer.
    Thanks very much for your advice. It is really helpful!!

  • hway

    Member
    June 19, 2022 at 8:45 am

    ketchito said:

    @hway What’s the pH of the commercial product?

    It’s pH 4-5 :)

  • Rabia

    Member
    June 28, 2022 at 7:48 pm

    Has anyone tried a formula that works. I hve been trying with cellulose but after it has hydrated the pilling vanishes. 

    Using 1% carbomer 940
    HEC 3%
    Also included cetrimonium chloride as i read thats the catalyst. But all failed experiments. 
    Please help with a basic formula that pills

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