Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating Organic & Artificial Pigment Based Lip Stick & Lip Gloss - How do you intensify their colours?

  • Organic & Artificial Pigment Based Lip Stick & Lip Gloss - How do you intensify their colours?

    Posted by Anonymous on April 22, 2014 at 11:19 am


    I am not a Chemist but I am wondering how you increase the ‘pigment intensity’ or ‘payoff pigment’ levels for ‘organic mineral pigment based’ and ‘artificial vibrant colour Yellow 5 & Red 7 based’ Lip Sticks and Lip Gloss?  We want our Lip Sticks and Lip Glosses to have a rich / intense look and feel.

    - which
    ingredient/s do we need to adjust / increase in order to achieve this?

    Thank you.

    Anonymous replied 10 years, 2 months ago 1 Member · 2 Replies
  • 2 Replies
  • Bobzchemist

    April 22, 2014 at 1:03 pm

    All pigments (as opposed to dyes) become more intense as their apparent particle size decreases. Most, if not all, pigments agglomerate/re-agglomerate, though, so taking a shortcut by buying finely milled dry pigment is usually not cost effective. Increasing the strength and/or length of time for your milling process will yield more intense color. There are dispersing aids that will reduce the amount of time/effort this takes.

    Once you have milled your pigments to the point that additional milling does not intensify color, though, your only choice to increase intensity on skin is to increase the amount of your pigment that’s applied to the skin.
    You can do this in one of two ways:
    1) Increase the amount of pigment in the formula
    2) Change the payoff, i.e. the amount of product that is applied to the skin during a typical application.
    How to change the payoff of a stick formula is something that you’re going to need to learn either through trial and error formulating work, or through consulting with suppliers and/or consulting cosmetic chemists. This is not information that will come for free - you’ll either need to put in the lab time to figure out your formula’s performance, or pay someone who’s already taken that time to figure it out for you. 
    I’d be happy to recommend a couple of consultants if you want to go that route.
  • Anonymous

    April 23, 2014 at 4:21 pm

    Thank you for your response and suggestions.  I will definitely be in touch if we need recommendations for consultants in this area.

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