Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating Hair oil treatments preventing permanent color performance?

  • oil treatments preventing permanent color performance?

    Posted by imported_stefarama on April 1, 2021 at 3:49 pm

    Hey all!  I spoke to a cosmetic chemist this week who made a comment I found interesting and wanted your feedback on it…
    He said that if a client used a hot oil treatment 5 days ago, that would affect the performance of the permanent hair color service I’m doing today. (not actually today, but you get the idea.)  
    He broke it down in layman’s terms by saying the oil basically stuffs the hair shaft so the color molecules don’t have enough places to go to do their job… resulting in spotty color or faster fading.
    I have not seen this to be true in practice as a hairstylist of 20 years, and I do oil services somewhat regularly.  However, I do the oil treatment after color (so as not to overstimulate the scalp and cause irritation during the color service).  Also, my clients come every 4-6 weeks, so I don’t know about 5 days ago.
    The question, though, is that home oil treatments are becoming more popular, especially coconut oil (which some science-y forums claim penetrates the hair shaft well).  
    Are these oil treatments concerning?  Should I be asking/educating clients about them to ensure proper color service performance??
    Thanks in advance!!

    imported_stefarama replied 3 years, 1 month ago 2 Members · 2 Replies
  • 2 Replies
  • chemicalmatt

    April 1, 2021 at 5:14 pm

    @stefarama all oils are occlusive to some degree, so he/she spoke the truth. Wash the hair thoroughly before dying with either oxidative or semipermanent hair dyes. Now, after dying the client’s hair, an oil treatment would be a good idea.

  • imported_stefarama

    April 1, 2021 at 9:14 pm

    The other side of this coin is that most permanent hair color has a pH of around 9, so wouldn’t that just pull out those oils negating said ‘stuffing’?

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