Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating Newbie Advice Needed : Press illuminators

  • Newbie Advice Needed : Press illuminators

    Posted by Shymb28 on August 18, 2016 at 9:21 pm

                Hello everyone. I am a newbie to this site. I been eyeing these discussion for a few weeks, and now I signed up to participate in them. I have been in the makeup industry for a few years now as an artist, but now I am interested in starting my own line. Right now I am focusing on one product before I decide to branch out.
                 I love press illuminators (highlighters). I just love how the skin has this overall Glow. This is the product that I want to push as my focus. Now for the past half of year I have been working on different formulas. I have tried different products and mixing them in different ratios. I also compared different basic formulas from other top brands and from other websites. I have so far have 3 different shade ranges.  But I notice that the ones I have made seem to be chunky and it flake when applied on the skin. In other words its not a smooth swatch when you take a brush and apply it to the skin. The product also seems to have a lot of fall out mess when applying form the pan.

    Now these are some of the many ingredients I have played with so far
    Boro Nitride
    Magnesium Stearate
    Sericite Mica
    Dimethicone

    Upon other advice and further research I have recently placed an order for
    Zinc Stearate 
    Nylon 12
    Kaoline Clay

                I have no prior knowledge in this field. Google, videos and books have been a good friend in helping me on my journey to create my product. I am just asking for general advice in steering me in the right direction. I mix my products thoroughly. I am not sure if I am using the right products. I am stuck at this point.

    Guidance is  defiantly needed. Thank you for reading.

    Shymb28 replied 7 years, 5 months ago 4 Members · 16 Replies
  • 16 Replies
  • oldperry

    Member
    August 19, 2016 at 6:27 pm

    The problem problem isn’t your ingredients, it’s the way you are mixing them together. To make most color cosmetics you need a device that will efficiently & effectively grind the products and colors together.  You can’t simply just mix them in by hand.

  • Shymb28

    Member
    August 20, 2016 at 12:14 pm

    thanks for your response Perry. Do you know the name of the device?

  • oldperry

    Member
    August 21, 2016 at 12:04 am
  • Shymb28

    Member
    August 22, 2016 at 4:58 pm

    Thank you so much. I am going to look into it.

  • Zolveria

    Member
    August 22, 2016 at 11:53 pm

    you can use a coffee grinder or a old mill.
    also never grind your effects mica this will damage them..

    make your base illuminator, bronzere etc

    Corn Powder / rice powder etcc 30%
    Sericite mica or treated sericite 30%
    Magnesium Mystearate 30%
    Sericite with Lauroyl-lysine 5%
    mica effect 5%

    mix all these and press with some
    Isopropyl Myristate,
    D5 or Dimethicone, Bis-Vinyl Dimethicone/Dimethicone Copolymer mixture
    remeber all must equal 100
    to the press you use enough to wet the mica not to saturate it..
    press and leave out to dry..

    you can also use a mortor to grind.. but i find that a grinder works best in these handmade situations.

  • bobzchemist

    Member
    August 24, 2016 at 2:09 pm

    When I was developing powders for Estee Lauder, among others, we used Osterizer blenders and their mini-containers very successfully - but it’s a 3 or 4 step process. 

    Blend base powders and pigments at high speed until color stops changing. Add micas gently. Add 1/2 your liquid binder dropwise, mix. Stop and scrape binder off walls and blade. Mix again. Add remainder of binder, mix until uniform.

    KOBO has some good starting formulas.

  • Shymb28

    Member
    August 29, 2016 at 12:39 pm

    Thanks Zolveria, I ordered a grinder. I normally mix the Mica during the last phase so that I do not disrupt the effects it gives off. Now I have heard of rice powder being a additive. I normally see this particular ingredient in luxury brands. Do you think this would be a good substitution in place of the Kaolin Clay? I have a sample of it in my stash but never thought to use it.

  • Shymb28

    Member
    August 29, 2016 at 12:45 pm

    Thank you bob. I searched for starting formulas for the particular product I am producing but haven’t had any success in it finding some. Its not a Blush im making nor does it have the same kind of pigmentation as eye shadow. So I am kind of on my own with this. But I have been incorporating sample formulas for the base in which lead me to the ingredients I am currently using. I have ordered some tools to try. I read a lot of your comments in other discussions and took notes. Thank you for that. I am going to try the way you mention and keep you updated with the success of it. 

  • Zolveria

    Member
    September 6, 2016 at 1:28 am

    sorry for the late response. : I am a Nurse Full time and CC partime.
    So here the break down:
    Below these increase translucence 

    Zinc Stearate, Magnesium mysterate, Magnesium stearate, Rice powder, Corn powder, Silk

    SLIP AND ADHESION: Magnesium Stearate, Rice powder, Silk  magnesium myristate koalin.

    opacifier Titanium dioxide, Kaolin, Silk mica, Satin pearl

    There maybe more.. Bob should know..

  • bobzchemist

    Member
    September 6, 2016 at 3:51 pm
  • Shymb28

    Member
    September 6, 2016 at 4:43 pm

    Hey bob, they link is not opening. It says “page cannot be found”.

  • Shymb28

    Member
    September 6, 2016 at 4:55 pm

    No worries Zolviera, I work full time as well.  But thank you for your response it is greatly appreciated. I ordered more things are waiting for them to come. 

  • bobzchemist

    Member
    September 6, 2016 at 5:51 pm

    Go here:

    http://www.koboproductsinc.com

    Click on “Formulas”

  • bobzchemist

    Member
    September 6, 2016 at 5:54 pm
  • oldperry

    Member
    September 6, 2016 at 7:14 pm

    I fixed the link above.

    Here it is again for anyone looking in the future.

    http://www.koboproductsinc.com/Formulas.html

  • Shymb28

    Member
    September 8, 2016 at 2:04 pm

    Thanks Bob and Perry. The link is now working.

Log in to reply.