From their brochure:
Greyverse™ contains an innovative α-MSH biomimetic peptide able to act on the different causes of the hair greying process. It offers an unprecedented efficient solution to prevent, stop, and reverse this inevitable sign of ageing.
The alleged α-MSH biomimetic, palmitoyl tetrapeptide-20, does neither share any sequence homology nor any sign of structural relatedness with α-MSH and it’s synthetic ligands which are used for in vitro
tests and in clinical trials. However, its sequence is for example found in cardioexcitatory peptide from the African giant snail, a salivary proline-rich peptide P-C), and the chemokine CXCL16, and the adhesion molecule ICAM-1.
The term ‘biomimetic’ refers to a compound which elicits a similar effect in a cell, an organ, or a whole organism without telling anything about the mode of action. As the text states ‘able to act on the different causes’ although most aren’t even known, this leaves mode of action to imagination. Although, later down in the brochure, they mention ‘Two factors…cause…hair greying…: the decrease in melanogenesis and the increase in oxidative stress in the hair bulb. Due to its complete mechanism of action, the peptide…is able to act simultaneously and efficiently on both factors by stimulating Melanocortin 1 Receptor.’
What is a ‘complete mechanism of action’? Also, activation of MC1R does not help against oxidative stress (neither simultaneous nor efficient action will help) and it’s not even clear how well real ‘stimulation’ (scientists use the terms activation or agonism) actually does promote melanogenesis in greying hair. Besides, what does activate MC1R is called a drug, not a cosmetic, and it would not just colour hair dark but skin as well.
The ‘offer of an unprecedented efficient solution’ is just ridiculous because it is precedented by more efficient solutions, which, for obvious reasons, are not simple tetrapeptides coupled to a fatty acid. Furthermore, greying isn’t an inevitable sign of ageing but simply an often happening consequence of progressing life.
In a ‘scientific’ publication
I found (and read), they mention:
The palmitoyl tetrapeptide-20 (PTP20) is a biomimetic peptide derived from the α-melanocyte-stimulating hormone (α-MSH). The sequence was chosen to interact with its receptor, the MC1-R. As said, The sequence as nothing to do with α-MSH and the tests they ran may be okayish but they more resemble a ‘Let’s see what we have laying around…’. SIRT-1 is a good example because several cosmetic companies think it’s great for marketing (I worked with a few people who did their PhD on SIRT and also did side-jobs for cosmetic industries). An activity on SIRT doesn’t prove anything.
You also find palmitoyl oligopeptides nearly exclusively as cosmetic ingredient… guess why.