Need your knowledge on anhydrous formulas, u wise people!
Hi! Im a 26-yo
cosmetology (yes, not chemist) student. In our school we have this programme
where we can try out being entrepneurs for a year. People who attend usually
work by making treatments to customers, but I wanted to make some cosmetic
products (solid shampoo, solid conditioner, soap, solid lotion for body and
maybe one for face too).
My products will
be (if this works out) anhydrous, and somehow I had this idea that it would be
fairly easy. Turns out its really science, and I might be a bit more ambitious than I should…
I have been
reading swift crafty monkeys blog for years, made some products, but never
really thought about the chemistry. Now when Im forced to think about the
chemistry, im more lost than the Grinch at christmas!
I made a solid
shampoo bar formula based on this guideline made by swift crafty monkey:
50 to 65% powdered surfactants
10 to 26% liquid surfactants
2 to 7% bar hardener like stearic acid, cetyl alcohol, or sodium lactate
1 to 3% emulsifiers (usually e-wax, but BTMS would double duty here)
2 to 7% conditioning agent like Incroquat CR or BTMS
2 to 3% butters - shea, mango, cocoa
1 to 2% hydrolyzed proteins
1 to 4% silicones - dimethicone at 1 to 2%, cyclomethicone at 1 to 2%
.5 to 2% panthenol
1 to 2% fragrance or essential oils
0.5% to 1% preservative
and my formula
6% stearic acid
57% Sodium cocoyl
3% Olive wax
2% hydrolyzed baobab
2% essential oils
Turns out the
olive wax does’nt work ’cause its not cationic. Turns out the sodium cocoyl
isethionate is not considered natural (tho its made from coconuts and is
readily biodegradable according to the msds). Turns out that much stearic acid might make some funny things to the foam. Turns out I dont undestand
Few things that
are important regarding the shampoo bar:
-It needs to be natural. Well, not totally natural, but NO sulfates,
phosphates, needs to be biodegradable, cant be toxic to aquatic creatures nor nature.
If it could be made by ecocert products would be a big plus!
-It would be nice
if the ingredients would be cost effective
-Does’nt need to be too conditioning, but should offer nice cleanse
-Also sensitive people could use it
Have I bitten
more than I can chew? Im reading and trying to learn all the time, but it seems
its not enough!
I try to make the
formulas and discover the ingredients as much as I can, but Im not a
professional and I hope I could get a little advice and knowledge from here
regarding my own formulas
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