Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating Need some advices on daily facial moisturizing cream formulation

  • Need some advices on daily facial moisturizing cream formulation

    Posted by Anonymous on June 25, 2017 at 3:50 pm

    I’d like to make daily facial moisturizing cream for dry and sensitive skin at home so I come up with this formula.

    Ingredient for 100 g of facial cream
    1. Aqua                                       75 g
    2. Squalane (olive)                       5 g
    3. Glycerin(vegetable 99.5%)       5 g
    4. Argan oil                                   5 g
    5. 1,2-Hexanediol                         4 g
    6.  Cetearyl alcohol                       3 g
    7. Phospholipid (Hydrogenated lecithin) 3 g

    1. Mix glycerin and 1,2-Hexanediol in aqua (water phase)
    2. Mix Phospholipid into the water phase at room temperature and spinning the mixture intensively until combined
    3. Mix squalane with argan oil and warm the oil mixture to 158F(70C) then mix cetearyl alcohol into the oil mixture. Stir until dissolved.
    4. Warm the water phase up to 158F (70C)
    5. Combine water phase and oil phase together and stir until the cream is formed.

    1. Is this formulation safe and practical? Will the cream be formed if I use this formula? Will the water phase and oil phase stay combined and not separated? (I really don’t have much Chemistry basis.)
    2. Can I use juice blender or hand mixer to spin phospholipid into water mixture?
    3. (If the formula is alright) Is this cream suitable for dry and sensitive skin?
    3. (If the formula is alright) Can young children (0-5 yrs) use this cream?

    Thank you in advance

    Anonymous replied 6 years, 5 months ago 2 Members · 6 Replies
  • 6 Replies

    June 25, 2017 at 4:26 pm

    The formula you post is a start.What is the final Ph? Plus before going into stability etc you will need a preservative.Since you intend this for use on sensitive skin suggest you use geoguard Ultra which will lower Ph to 5.

  • MarkBroussard

    June 25, 2017 at 5:48 pm


    Your formula looks just fine, but if you want it to be really moisturizing, you might consider including some Natural Moisturizing Factor ingredients such as Hyaluronic Acid (Super Low Molecular Weight, Sodium Lactate, Sodium PCA and/or Sorbitol.  To address sensitive skin issues, a bit of Oat Beta Glucan would be a nice addition.

    Yes, you can blend the Lecithin in with a hand mixer or juice blender if that is what you have available.

  • MarkBroussard

    June 26, 2017 at 3:19 am


    One issue you may want to pay some attention to:  Lecithin can have variable HLB values of 4, 7 or 9 … it all depends on the Lecithin you are using … ask your supplier.

    Your Oils have an HLB of 11, so you might want to consider adding a high HLB emulsifier to your mix such as Cetearyl Glucoside (HLB 11) or something even higher on the HLB scale, particularly if
     the HLB of your Lecithin is 4 or 7.

  • Anonymous

    June 26, 2017 at 8:18 am

    @MarkBroussard @DRBOB@VERDIENT.BIZ
    Thank you for your advices.
    Should I replace all lecithin with Cetearyl Glucoside sorbitan olivate ( the only type I can get from supplier) at the same percentage or add Cetearyl Glucoside 3% and reduce aqua to 72%(lecithin remains the same)??

  • MarkBroussard

    June 26, 2017 at 12:01 pm


    Yes, add 3% CG/SA and reduce water to 72%, Lecithin remains the same.  That will give you a more stable emulsion than just Lecithin.

  • Anonymous

    June 26, 2017 at 2:38 pm

    @MarkBroussard Thanks again

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