Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating Need help with solid conditioner

  • Need help with solid conditioner

    Posted by Agustinabruni on May 26, 2021 at 7:44 pm

    Hello there! I tried to make a homemade version of a solid conditioner I saw online but after a couple of days it got all blotchy and patchy and has spots of lighter color. I never used it, I just left it to rest. This is the formulation:

    • Coconut oil - 7%
    • Shea butter - 7%
    • Almond oil - 7%
    • Cocoa butter - 39%

    • Krim 400 (cetearyl alcohol + cetrimonium chloride) - 39% → I used this in replacement for btms 

    • Red clay - 1%

    • Plus a couple drops of vitamin E

    Maybe it’s a problem about preservatives? Also, the clay doesn’t fully integrate with the oils and just falls to the bottom of the bar while cooling.

    Thank you for your help! xoxo

    abierose replied 3 years ago 4 Members · 8 Replies
  • 8 Replies
  • Microformulation

    Member
    May 26, 2021 at 9:44 pm
    “..a couple of drops of Vitamin E”
    Are you mixing your ingredients by weight?
  • Agustinabruni

    Member
    May 26, 2021 at 10:38 pm

    “..a couple of drops of Vitamin E”
    Are you mixing your ingredients by weight?

    Yes, I measure everything in grams except for Vitamin E that I measure with drops (3 drops)

    The rest of the ingredients are:

    • Coconut oil - 3.3 gr
    • Shea butter - 3.3 gr
    • Almond oil - 3.3 gr
    • Cocoa butter - 20 gr
    • Krim 400 - 20 gr
    • Red clay - 0.5 gr

  • Microformulation

    Member
    May 27, 2021 at 11:14 pm
    1. Proper nomenclature should be in wt/wt%. That is the proper notation.
    2. All raw materials must be weighed.
  • Agustinabruni

    Member
    May 27, 2021 at 11:29 pm

    Perfect! Do you have any idea what might be causing the blotchy parts of the conditioner? 

  • Cafe33

    Member
    May 28, 2021 at 4:15 pm

    Also, the clay doesn’t fully integrate with the oils and just falls to the bottom of the bar while cooling.

    Thank you for your help! xoxo

    Perhaps this is causing the blotchy part of the conditioner. Either way there is really no place for clays in solid conditioner bars.  Why do you wish to replace BTMS? If it is a matter of cost, a conditioner bar can work very well with a very high level of fatty alcohols without using high levels of butters and oils. Also, BTMS-25 is less expensive than the 50 version and works very well.  

    I generally start with 60% BTMS-25 and 10-15% Cetyl Alcohol. The rest is butters (3-5%), vegetable oils (3-5%), CCT (3-5%) and esters (~10%) (Natrasil for natural story)

  • Microformulation

    Member
    May 28, 2021 at 4:44 pm

  • Agustinabruni

    Member
    May 28, 2021 at 8:24 pm

    Cafe33 said:

    Why do you wish to replace BTMS? 

    I live in Latin America and BTMS is quite expensive. There´s also only BTMS 50 available here.

    Also, to my understanding, BTMS is really harmful to the environment, so I read that Krim 400 is a more ecological alternative. 

    I will try again, with 60% Krim 400, 10% cetyl alcohol, and then butters/oils, and CCT. I couldn’t find Natrasil where I live. Do you recomend any alternatives?

    Thanks a lot for all the advice! xoxo

  • abierose

    Member
    May 28, 2021 at 10:11 pm

    LuxGlideN360 (INCI: Diheptyl Succinate (and) Capryloyl Glycerin/Sebacic Acid Copolymer)
    or
    Daikon Seed Extract

    Both of the above ingredients can be used as a sub for NatraSil, although they are all different ingredients but are commonly used as a natural alternative to silicone.

Log in to reply.