Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating Need help Formulating liquid to matte lipstick

  • Need help Formulating liquid to matte lipstick

    Posted by m_makeup on June 25, 2015 at 2:27 pm
    Good morning !
    My friend and I are creating our own cosmetics. We want to specialize in liquid to matte lipstick. A formula that glides on wet and dries to a complete matte finish. I have tired dozens upon dozens of unsuccessful batches. However, I am very close! The problems I tend to have are 1. The color is not holding 2. The completed item separates into oil/water after a day or two and 3. My lips tend to burn when I apply the liquid lipstick. I think it I am getting the burning because I am mixing the magnesium sterate with an ingredient I am not supposed to be mixing it with. I am desperate for help as doing this is very frustrating. The magnesium sterate made the formula matte and everything, but it burned my lips! The product separates and sometimes the color goes on streaky and the color does not hold. Below is a list of my ingredients that I am working  with. I am not sure if I need to add  more of one ingredient or completely take out one ingredient. Percentage wise I need help. Could you please give me some advice and aid me to creating a formula that dries matte and the color goes on non-streaky and holds. Thanks so much!! Any help would be greatly appreciated!

    Typically I add items 1,2,3,4 together and heat
    Add 9 ,6 & 7 to the batch
    The 12 & 13
    And finally either beeswax, magnesium sterate or carauba wax to hold the mixture together
    THIS IS JUST 1 EXAMPLE OF HOW I WOULD CREATE A BATCH. AS I MENTIONED I TRIED DOZENS UPON DOZENS AND HAVE FAILED

    THE INGREDIENT I ADD THE MOST OF IS ISODODECANE. SMALLER BUT EQUAL AMOUNTS OF Cyclopentasiloxane AND dimethicone OR
     Dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer. THE REST IS SMALL PORTIONS. 

    1.Isododecane 
    2.Trimethylsiloxysilicate / Polypropylsilsesquioxane 
    3.Cyclopentasiloxane 
    4.dimethicone 350
    5.Magnesium Sterate
    6.Titanium Dioxide
    7.Dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer
    8.Kaolin
    9.Colors dispersed in castor oil 
    10.Beeswax
    11.Carnauba Wax
    12.Phenoxyethanol
    13.Vitamin E


    PLEASE INBOX ME WITH HELP
    makoto replied 2 months, 2 weeks ago 9 Members · 16 Replies
  • 16 Replies
  • microformulation

    Member
    June 25, 2015 at 3:47 pm

    I think this is a case where you will need to retain a Cosmetic Chemist with Color experience. There are many listed in the resources section. Many of us do this to pay the bills and I think this goes a bit beyond free advice. Just my opinion.

  • oldperry

    Member
    June 25, 2015 at 4:32 pm

    Great point @microfomulation

    This is a very complicated project that can’t be answered in a simple post.

    To get more information yourself you could conduct a knockout experiment.  This will tell you exactly what ingredient is causing the stinging.
  • m_makeup

    Member
    June 25, 2015 at 4:42 pm

    I really just need to know what ingredients cannot be mixed together. That would help a lot

  • bobzchemist

    Member
    June 25, 2015 at 6:07 pm

    Find trial formulas for liquid lipstick on the web, and use them as starting points. Making a liquid lipstick matte just requires adding mattifying agents.

    Or, you could save yourself months, possibly even years, of formulating work and just hire a consultant. It all comes down to how much your time is worth.
  • AuroraBorealis

    Member
    June 25, 2015 at 6:11 pm

    Unfortunately as Mark and Perry have said, you may have to pay someone for those answers. 

    It’s not a simple question of what can or can not be mixed with what. Even if it was that simple of question, you need to realize that you’re asking for an expertise that you don’t have and the chemist has worked hard to gain. You have to pay for that expertise. 
  • m_makeup

    Member
    June 26, 2015 at 11:55 am

     Where can I find a consultant? @bobzchemist

  • microformulation

    Member
    June 26, 2015 at 11:59 am

    If you look in the “Anouncement Need Formulating Services? Here are some contacts” formulators post their contact info. Several Color Cosmetic Specialists have posted in the last few months.

    I see three who have posted since April.

  • bobzchemist

    Member
    June 26, 2015 at 1:49 pm

    You can also look on LinkedIn

  • chemist77

    Member
    June 26, 2015 at 4:22 pm

    Well while agreeing with all the learned specialists here my first change would be elimination of castor oil pigments and use silicone compatible or coated pigments. Then I would look for further trials. Get rid of kaolin as well if you are using it as a filler or mattifier and look for other options compatible with this kind of formula.

  • lipstickgirl

    Member
    July 1, 2015 at 10:08 pm

    I am also looking for a formulator for the same project and willing to pay for the service but did not find anyone under the Need Formulating Services section nor received any replies to my post. Im not familiar with Linked In but I may have to look into that

    • makoto

      Member
      December 10, 2023 at 7:09 am

      Hey did you get the formulation??

  • bobzchemist

    Member
    July 2, 2015 at 2:17 pm
    I posted this elsewhere, but I thought here would also be helpful.

    Where one can find a cosmetic chemist:
    +In the US, at the Society of Cosmetic Chemists (SCC) website
    +In the UK, at the Society of Cosmetic Scientists (SCS) website
    +In Australia, at the Australian Society of Cosmetic Chemists (ASCC) website https://www.ascc.com.au/content.php?id=7
    +For the rest of the world, find a country here first, then go to that countries website:
    International Federation of Societies of Cosmetic Chemists (IFSCC)



    +On LinkedIn, there are several groups, or you can just search for “cosmetic chemist”

    +In the cosmetic industry professional magazines advertisements
    -HAPPI (Household and Personal Products Industry)
    -GCI (Global Cosmetic Industry)
    -Cosmetics & Toiletries

    also look at:
    +The Personal Care Product Council (PCPC)
    +Cosmetic Index
  • oldperry

    Member
    July 6, 2015 at 3:18 pm

    Great list Bob!

  • makoto

    Member
    December 10, 2023 at 12:13 am

    Hey can you share your liquid lipstick formulation percentage..

    • Babel

      Member
      December 10, 2023 at 6:39 am

      Why would she do that?

      • This reply was modified 2 months, 2 weeks ago by  Babel.
      • makoto

        Member
        December 10, 2023 at 7:07 am

        I will pay….

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