Need advice for my formulation

Tagged: formula, formula development, formulation, ingredients, surfactants

Formulating

Need advice for my formulation

Posted by tasha15 on March 12, 2019 at 2:46 am

this is my shampoo formulation. Sls/sles/sulphate free anti dandruff shampoo.

Antibacterial agent: 0.5 %

Glycerin : 2 %

EDTA : 0.5 %

Lauryl Glucoside : 10%

Decyl Glucoside : 6 %

Coco Glucoside & Gliceryl Oleate : 2 %

Sodium Benzoate : 0.1 %

Sodium CMC : 1 %

Lavender essential oil : 1 %

Citric Acid : As needed

Water : Qs - 100.

IS THERE ANYTHING I SHOULD ADD OR REMOVE TO MAKE THIS FORMULATION BETTER. Please guide me. Thank you for your time and consideration.

Ahmad replied 5 years, 6 months ago 6 Members · 27 Replies
27 Replies

tasha15

Member
March 12, 2019 at 5:49 am

This there anything i should do? Or this formulation is already good enough.
tasha15

Member
March 12, 2019 at 6:29 am

Should i add Cocamidopropyl betaine 10% ?
smok

Member
March 12, 2019 at 10:01 am

2% btaine

add selicone or poly
ngarayeva001

Member
March 12, 2019 at 10:15 am

1% of EO is too high. Keep in mind fragrances reduce viscosity.
0.5% of EDTA? What type are you using? It looks high.
Glucosides make a terrible shampoo. They turn hair into a rat nest, especially withouht cationic compounds.
What is “Antibacterial agent”? Is it part of the preservation system?
And what makes this product anti dandruff?
tasha15

Member
March 12, 2019 at 10:55 am

Sorry it was suppose to be 0.05 % of EDTA. Will reduce the EO to 0.5 % then. What other main surfactant that is sls free or sulphate free that i can use? That also has lower side effect. Should i add any solubiliser?
ngarayeva001

Member
March 12, 2019 at 11:19 am

What do you mean by “side effect”?
tasha15

Member
March 12, 2019 at 11:19 am

smok said:

2% btaine

add selicone or poly

What poly or selicone?
tasha15

Member
March 12, 2019 at 11:33 am

ngarayeva001 said:

What do you mean by “side effect”?

I mean low harm. What should i add to make this formulation better?
ngarayeva001

Member
March 12, 2019 at 12:15 pm

None of cosmetic ingredients cause harm when used as recommended.
Sulfates do not cause any “harm”. You might not like how hair feel after a generic SLS/SLES shampoo, but it’s a matter of taste not the indication that they cause harm. Also, that glucosides combination you use provides much worse sensorials than the cheapest sulfate based shampoo.

I think smok meant polyquaterniums. There are many of them, 7 and 10 are commonly used in shampoos. Regarding silicones, its a bit questionable, because they supress them foam. You can add them but not much. I personally like watersoluble ones.
tasha15

Member
March 12, 2019 at 12:18 pm

ngarayeva001 said:

None of cosmetic ingredients cause harm when used as recommended.
Sulfates do not cause any “harm”. You might not like how hair feel after a generic SLS/SLES shampoo, but it’s a matter of taste not the indication that they cause harm. Also, that glucosides combination you use provides much worse sensorials than the cheapest sulfate based shampoo.

So should i replace the lauryl glucoside with Sodium Lauroyl Sarcosinate. Will it be better. Whats your opinion. Thank you for helping
ngarayeva001

Member
March 12, 2019 at 12:22 pm

Chemophobia aside:

Sodium lauroyl sarcosinate as a main surfactant+CABP as a secondary. Add polyquaternium 7 for conditioning. Crothix liqud as a thickener.

No glucosides.
tasha15

Member
March 12, 2019 at 12:23 pm

Antibacterial agent: 0.5 %

Glycerin : 2 %

EDTA : 0.05 %

Sodium lauroyl sarcosinate : 10%

Decyl Glucoside : 6 %

Coco Glucoside & Gliceryl Oleate : 2 %

Cocamidopropyl betaine: 10%

Sodium Benzoate : 0.1 %

Sodium CMC : 1 %

Lavender essential oil : 0.5 %

Citric Acid : As needed

Water : Qs - 100.

does this sound better?
tasha15

Member
March 12, 2019 at 12:23 pm

ngarayeva001 said:

Chemophobia aside:

Sodium lauroyl sarcosinate as a main surfactant+CABP as a secondary. Add polyquaternium 7 for conditioning. Crothix liqud as a thickener.

No glucosides.

Owh okay i just saw this comment.
tasha15

Member
March 12, 2019 at 12:25 pm

The percentage of sodium lauroyl sarcosinate 10% and CABP 10% will be okay?
ngarayeva001

Member
March 12, 2019 at 12:38 pm

Active matter of Sarcosinate is something around 30, CAPB is around 35. 10% of each leaves you with 6.5%
Shampoo should have 15% of active matter, so you need to recalculate.
tasha15

Member
March 12, 2019 at 1:27 pm

ngarayeva001 said:

Active matter of Sarcosinate is something around 30, CAPB is around 35. 10% of each leaves you with 6.5%
Shampoo should have 15% of active matter, so you need to recalculate.

Okay thank you very much ❤️
ngarayeva001

Member
March 12, 2019 at 2:47 pm

You can use this tool
http://makingskincare.com/surfactant-calculator/

And in general, makingskincare is a very good resource for learning.
tasha15

Member
March 12, 2019 at 3:05 pm

Again thank you so much ?
Gunther

Member
March 13, 2019 at 12:57 am

tasha15 said:

this is my shampoo formulation. Sls/sles/sulphate free anti dandruff shampoo.

Antibacterial agent: 0.5 %

Glycerin : 2 %

EDTA : 0.5 %

Lauryl Glucoside : 10%

Decyl Glucoside : 6 %

Coco Glucoside & Gliceryl Oleate : 2 %

Sodium Benzoate : 0.1 %

Sodium CMC : 1 %

Lavender essential oil : 1 %

Citric Acid : As needed

Water : Qs - 100.

IS THERE ANYTHING I SHOULD ADD OR REMOVE TO MAKE THIS FORMULATION BETTER. Please guide me. Thank you for your time and consideration.

1. What’s the antibacterial agent? Does that work as a preservative too?
2. EDTA better at 0.1%.
3. Too much glucosides will make it sticky.
4. Na-benzoate too little at 0.1%. Better at 0.5%+acidic pH, but even that’s no substitute for microbial tests.
5. I don’t think Na-CMC will thicken glucosides much, but only experimentation can tell.
6. Citric acid as needed? What’s the target pH?
tasha15

Member
March 13, 2019 at 5:56 pm

Gunther said:

tasha15 said:

this is my shampoo formulation. Sls/sles/sulphate free anti dandruff shampoo.

Antibacterial agent: 0.5 %

Glycerin : 2 %

EDTA : 0.5 %

Lauryl Glucoside : 10%

Decyl Glucoside : 6 %

Coco Glucoside & Gliceryl Oleate : 2 %

Sodium Benzoate : 0.1 %

Sodium CMC : 1 %

Lavender essential oil : 1 %

Citric Acid : As needed

Water : Qs - 100.

IS THERE ANYTHING I SHOULD ADD OR REMOVE TO MAKE THIS FORMULATION BETTER. Please guide me. Thank you for your time and consideration.

1. What’s the antibacterial agent? Does that work as a preservative too?
2. EDTA better at 0.1%.
3. Too much glucosides will make it sticky.
4. Na-benzoate too little at 0.1%. Better at 0.5%+acidic pH, but even that’s no substitute for microbial tests.
5. I don’t think Na-CMC will thicken glucosides much, but only experimentation can tell.
6. Citric acid as needed? What’s the target pH?

No the antibacterial agent is only to treat the dandruff.
ngarayeva001

Member
March 13, 2019 at 6:33 pm

Dandruff is caused by either immune system issues or fungus infection, not bacteria. You don’t have a proper preservative system in your formula.
tasha15

Member
March 16, 2019 at 1:43 pm

ngarayeva001 said:

Dandruff is caused by either immune system issues or fungus infection, not bacteria. You don’t have a proper preservative system in your formula.

What preservatives should i subtitute with then?

antidandruff agent : 1%
glycerin : 2%
edta : 0.1 %
sodium lauryl sarcosinate : 20%
CABP : 10 %
polyquaternium 7 : 1%
crothix liquid : 1%
sodium benzoate : 0.5 %
essential oil : 0.5 %
citric acid : qs
water : qs
tasha15

Member
March 16, 2019 at 3:03 pm

Sorry
sodium lauryl sarcosinate: 10%
CABP : 20%
ngarayeva001

Member
March 16, 2019 at 9:39 pm

You should understand the science behind calculating surfactants active matter.
Ahmad

Member
May 6, 2019 at 6:16 am

Belassi said:

940 is useless with anionic surfactants.

which grade of carbopol is better, ultrez-20/21 is not available in our country.
we have polygel-940/941/934.
Does it have any other name (ultrez-21)?
can anyone answer?

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