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Natural substitute to Emulsifying wax NF (with polysorbate 60)
I have formulated with Emulsifying wax NF - it is polysorbate 60 in it, like to find a more natural substitute. I do have lots of cetearyl alcohol in stock. Could I use Sodium Cetearyl Sulfate toghether with cetearyl alcohol? Where can I buy this as a single ingredients?
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10 Replies
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Well…no emulsifiers grow on trees…
but you could look at Montanov:
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LOr this one…which I use as a co-emulsifier on about every one of my projects.
FSS GLYCERYL STEARATE CITRATE (formulatorsampleshop.com)
Do NOT confuse this with Glyceryl (mono) Stearate…even though the names sound similar.
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Thank you. About Montanov - I do have cetearyl alcohol, so I need the emulsifier I can add to ceterayl alcohol to have something similar to Emulsifying wax NF -
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Cetearyl alcohol can be added to virtually any emulsifier. It is a builder/thickener/haptic enhancer.
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tinas said:I have formulated with Emulsifying wax NF - it is polysorbate 60 in it, like to find a more natural substitute. I do have lots of cetearyl alcohol in stock. Could I use Sodium Cetearyl Sulfate toghether with cetearyl alcohol? Where can I buy this as a single ingredients?More natural… okay… you mean like close to naturally occuring molecules but possibly still from petrochemistry o:) .See, cetearyl alcohol is still often produced from ethylene oxide (the same building block used to make polysorbates) and detearyl sulfate is about the same just that sulfates aren’t too hyped at the moment.Yes, you could mix them to get a similar product (sold for example as Lanette N).However, it will be an anionic emulsifyer and not a non-ionic one. For that, you could blend your fatty alcohols with a polyglyceryl ester (or go with @Graillotion‘s proposition for polyglucosides or similar). Or at least replace the sulfate with a glutamate, citrate, or lactylate ester to give it a more ‘natural’ appeal. -
Thank you - I think the main problem is that Emulsifying wax NF is not listed in Cosmos standard raw materials.
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tinas said:Thank you - I think the main problem is that Emulsifying wax NF is not listed in Cosmos standard raw materials.
If you want an equally heavy feeling emulsifier….you could try the other commonly used one. OliveM 1000.
As many of us do not keep up with the self-appointed standard setting pseudo establishments….I would have NO IDEA who it is approved with. But based on the INCI…I would guess it would meet that format.
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Nowadays the most natural sounding emulsifiers are polyglyceryl and polyglycosides.
I like polyglyceryls because they are cheaper.
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Hi Tinas - I guess it depends on what products you are wanting to make to decide which emulsifiers/fatty thickeners etc you need/want to use. I have quite a few Emulsifiers now and they all give my cream and lotions different qualities. Some say that Olivem 1000 (Inci : Cetearyl Olivate, Sorbitan Olivate) tends to have a soaping effect but I havent found that so - I guess it depends on your whole formula.
Some emulsifiers I have used and like in conjunction with Cetyl or Cetearyl Alcohol (depending if I want it lighter or creamier product) are: Vegetal (other trade names are SUGARMULSE / GLUCOMULSE / MONTANOV68 IncI: CETEARYL ALCOHOL AND CETEARYL GLUCOSIDE - This is Ecocert and Cosmos approved if that matters to you (Note It doesnt to me and I prefer other emulsifiers myself including those with PEGs etc). Maybe check with your current Suppliers (I assume you have a few?) and ask their advice on what best will suit your needs. Cheers -
Thank you all for your comments!!
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tinas said:I have formulated with Emulsifying wax NF - it is polysorbate 60 in it, like to find a more natural substitute. I do have lots of cetearyl alcohol in stock. Could I use Sodium Cetearyl Sulfate toghether with cetearyl alcohol? Where can I buy this as a single ingredients?If you live in Europe, you can check this site : https://www.dragonspice.de/naturkosmetikRohstoffe/Emulgatoren/Alle-Emulgatoren/?pgNr=1They sell some basic emulsifiers which you can combine with your Cetearyl alcohol.Emul Care CG90 Aka Cerearyl glucoside - they still have it although it’s no longer produced.Emulgin SG Aka Sodium Stearoyl GlutamateEmulsan 2 Aka Methylglucose sesquistearateGlyceryl Stearate SESoftfeel PS Aka Polyglyceryl-3 Stearate
Also you can combine Olivem 1000 with the Cetearyl alcohol. I can’t agree that it is heavy. I think the people which say that can’t use it properly, but that’s my opinion.
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