Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating Most well tolerated fragrances

  • Most well tolerated fragrances

    Posted by MaidenOrangeBlossom on April 19, 2025 at 11:46 pm

    I am looking to potentially use fragrances at some point but due to fragrances being one of the highest causes of allergies and dermatitis in sensitive skin, what would be the most tolerated? Are there any essential oil brands that are well tolerated, synthetic blends? After using essential oils safely for 30 years, I can no longer use them due to a severe eczema flare that disrupted my well being for several months. However, I was told to avoid synthetic fragrances as well. Now that I haven’t had eczema in some time, I can use fragrant products in wash off applications or hand lotions. The fragrances and or essential oils in those products appear to be ok but I don’t know what they are since they appear as parfum or fragrance on the label.

    mikethair replied 1 week, 1 day ago 6 Members · 15 Replies
  • 15 Replies
  • Graillotion

    Member
    April 20, 2025 at 1:28 am

    Humans are like snowflakes (in fact, some are SNOWFLAKES! 😅). What that means….is there are no two alike. What bothers you…might not bother me…and Vise versa. So, you have asked a question that is difficult to answer, one that maybe you can only answer for and about yourself.

    That being said, the EU has delineated the most common of the allergens contained in essential oils and fragrance ingredients, and even preservatives. With essential oils…it is rather simple to find a GC-MS…and determine how much of these allergens are contained in a specific EO. The only value that will have… is it will give you some insight on the increased or decreased likelihood of the entire population, having any type of sensitivity.

    As we like to say….the poison is in the dosing. You can use some of these type ingredients….if you use it at low enough rates (EO’s / fragrances). Some people will not react…if you use many times too much….others will be intolerant to even the smallest amount. Typically, it is pretty difficult to make a cosmetic that the ENTIRE population will find suitable. Hence….you guessed it…. why there is more than one brand. 😉 And why ‘unscented’ products are offered. This field extends well past fragrance…and can include about any possible ingredient in a formula.

    Good Luck.

    The attached link has the EU allergen list in the article. Just use that list…when you study the GC-MS of an essential oil. New allergen list - Cosmacon

    • This reply was modified 2 weeks, 6 days ago by  Graillotion.
  • MaidenOrangeBlossom

    Member
    April 20, 2025 at 10:21 pm

    Wow I was using a lot of the most common allergens.

  • mikethair

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    April 21, 2025 at 2:19 am

    This post is what I’d call a “dog’s dinner of misconceptions.”

    Yes, fragrances are one of the highest causes of allergies and dermatitis in sensitive skin. Synthetics are probably the worst culprits here.

    The key is to look at the CoAs and analysis of allergens for each EO. For example, in my 20+ years of formulating and distributing products globally, Patchouli was not an issue because the level of allergens is low. In contrast, Lavender EO is one of the worst with high levels of allergens.

    There is a big difference between “fragrances” - mostly synthetics, and essential oils. The key here is the INCI name appearing in the product list of ingredients that should be placed on the product. If you need any help, email me at: mikethair@gmail.com

    Kind regards,

    Dr Mike Thair

    Consultant: Skincare Product Development and Manufacturing.

    • Perry44

      Professional Chemist / Formulator
      April 21, 2025 at 7:33 am

      Respectfully, a hard disagree. Natural compounds are much more likely to cause allergic reactions than synthetics.

      • Graillotion

        Member
        April 21, 2025 at 6:02 pm

        Do you ever get the feeling, the group is getting ‘pranked’? I suspect so.

        Just a couple of weeks ago…the subject said ” Lavender ” never causes issues! I find it entertaining….but to a point.

        • This reply was modified 2 weeks, 4 days ago by  Graillotion.
        • This reply was modified 2 weeks, 4 days ago by  Graillotion.
      • mikethair

        Professional Chemist / Formulator
        April 21, 2025 at 6:16 pm

        Hi Perry,

        Can you provide links to the scientific literature supporting natural compounds are much more likely to cause allergic reactions than synthetics?

        This is something I’m interested in knowing about.

        Thanks.

        • This reply was modified 2 weeks, 4 days ago by  mikethair.
  • ketchito

    Member
    April 22, 2025 at 4:05 pm

    Sorry for chipping in, but I feel this like deja vu, hehe. Here are some systematic reviews (which are the best source of evidence):

    1) This is an Opinion on Essential Oils from the EU SCCP: https://ec.europa.eu/health/archive/ph_risk/committees/sccp/documents/out218_en.pdf. In there, you can read the following:

    “An important problem
    with fragrance substances of ‘natural origin’ is the difficulty of quality control. There may be
    considerable variation in the content of toxic/sensitising chemicals; oakmoss is an example.
    There is no demonstration in the peer reviewed scientific literature that fragrances compounds of
    natural origin are ‘safer’ than synthetics.”

    2) This is the Annex I to the same review “Clinical evidence regarding sensitisation to
    individual fragrance chemicals and to natural extracts”: https://ec.europa.eu/health/scientific_committees/consumer_safety/docs/sccs_o_073_annex1.pdf. From the page 68 onwards, you can find a catalogue of natural extracts and essential oils.

    I was going to post more things, but I have to do husband stuff. Enjoy!

    • mikethair

      Professional Chemist / Formulator
      April 22, 2025 at 6:24 pm

      The key is to look at the CoAs and analysis of allergens for each EO. For example, in my 20+ years of formulating and distributing products globally, Patchouli was not an issue because the level of allergens is low. In contrast, Lavender EO is one of the worst with high levels of allergens.

  • Onur

    Member
    April 30, 2025 at 10:20 am

    You were told to avoid synthetic fragrances because no one knows what they’re talking about. A “natural” fragrant oil is made of… guess what… chemicals! Most of them are common allergens and some isolates from them or fully lab-created aroma chemicals are better for this purpose. They also allow you to create non-medicinal smelling, beautiful fragrances.


    Fragrances that are used in cosmetics are mostly made of Hedione + Iso E Super + Galaxolide combo because those materials are the skeletons of modern fragrances. Then they might throw a floral, fruit, or an aromatic base in that skeleton. Apart from those three, the most preferred aroma chemicals are ionones (violet, iris), heliotropin (almond, sweet), vanillin/ethyl vanillin (vanilla), coumarin (tonka), phenyl ethyl alcohol (rose), linalool/linalyl acetate (lavender), limonene (orange) etc.

    There’s no need to learn another artistry to scent your materials, though. You can just buy fragrances made for cosmetics or just hire a perfumer.

    • mikethair

      Professional Chemist / Formulator
      April 30, 2025 at 6:33 pm

      With respect, @Onur. I find your statement that “no one knows what they’re talking about” offensive. Would you mind outlining your qualifications and experience that make you an expert?

      Thanks.

      Kind regards,

      Dr Mike Thair

      • Onur

        Member
        May 1, 2025 at 5:11 pm

        I’m an organic chemist with 12 years of experience in perfume making.

        • mikethair

          Professional Chemist / Formulator
          May 1, 2025 at 5:45 pm

          Excellent.

          • Onur

            Member
            May 1, 2025 at 6:03 pm

            Thanks—I didn’t mean to offend anyone. Aroma chemicals used in perfumery are actually very well-tolerated and safe. They aren’t inherently riskier than natural essential oils just because they’re labeled “synthetic.” In fact, it’s often the opposite. Essential oils, absolutes, and extracts contain dozens of aromatic compounds, many of which are known allergens. They don’t offer any particular benefit in skincare, either. Modern perfumery uses both synthetics (primarily) and natural ingredients when appropriate. Synthetics are exceptionally useful for creating an infinite range of scent profiles—floral, fruity, fougère, gourmand, etc.—without the medicinal or terpenic notes often associated with natural materials. They offer a broader palette and are well studied by toxicologists.

            • mikethair

              Professional Chemist / Formulator
              May 1, 2025 at 7:01 pm

              Hi @Onur, no offence taken. Yes indeed, essential oils contain many allergens, and these are well-documented and studied. Essential oils have been around for a long time. But I can’t say the same for synthetic fragrances.

              And with essential oils, it all comes down to the skills of the formulator to study this documentation and formulate appropriately. Something I have been doing professionally since 2006 when I launched my brand Indochine Natural and my factories in Viet Nam and Malaysia.

              I was committed to all-natural products, so any synthetic ingredients were excluded. I remained true to my convictions.

    • MaidenOrangeBlossom

      Member
      April 30, 2025 at 8:56 pm

      Its an interesting science so I would love to learn more and the process of experimenting, I was able to learn enough to be able to blend without looking at a guide. It was not only a lot of fun but you learn more than just scent. You can learn how it impacts the formula. I’ve created some god awful nasty stuff I couldn’t give away and learned a lot. But with the right funding, I would hire a consultant in a hear beat.

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