Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating Montanov L Emulsion failures & best stabilizer to use?

  • Montanov L Emulsion failures & best stabilizer to use?

    Posted by scbeautyformulator on May 18, 2023 at 10:53 pm


    I have been having the worst time with Montanov L and my emulsions staying together. No matter what I do, the oil phase begins coagulating the second I start adding the heated water phase, and I have tried to stick blend through the coagulation until a lotion forms but it never does. I have tried to switch between stirring by hand and stick blend, doesn’t work. I have tried emulsions with high heat, low heat, etc. I have read that many people have a hard time with this emulsifier, and Montanov 68. I use cetyl alcohol to help with the stability of the emulsion, add gum rheology modifiers, and I just don’t know where it is failing.

    What are your methods to getting a secure emulsion? Are there additives that help prevent this issue?

    scbeautyformulator replied 10 months, 4 weeks ago 3 Members · 4 Replies
  • 4 Replies
  • graillotion

    May 19, 2023 at 4:59 am

    Sounds like you are dealing with a phase inversion.

    Add the oil phase slowly to the water phase…while under stirring.

    It is hard to analyze a formula…when we don’t have the formula.

    The best co-emulsifiers…are anionic…as long as there are no other conflicting ingredients. However…that will not address your phase inversion.

    • scbeautyformulator

      May 19, 2023 at 3:47 pm

      I didn’t post a recipe because I have so many. I am noticing that the larger my water phase, the better the chances of having a good emulsion. I use Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate as a stabilizer at 1% but don’t see much improvement. I have no cationic ingredients in the formulas.

  • ketchito

    May 19, 2023 at 8:44 am

    It seems to me you’re trying to make an o/w emulsion, but adding the water phase to the oil phase. Am I getting it right? If that’s the case, try adding the oil phase to the water phase slowly, as @Graillotion suggested.

    • scbeautyformulator

      May 19, 2023 at 3:43 pm

      Yes, I was following the instructions on the website that said to add water to oil. So you suggest oil to water then? Ok, I will give it a shot!

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